Saturday, February 28, 2015

A perfume from heart and memories

Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

This is the first Serge Lutens I tried about couple of years ago and the first I bought and my first impressing was parallel to Luca Turin's first impression on the master's name "what a mysterious name" and I said what a mysterious smell.
Fille en Aiguilles is the best and an absolutely unrealistic and abstract perfume that presents the most realistic and elaborate pine scent ever, which itself is one of the most challenging raw materials to extract. About the title, just in the beginning I have to admit that I'm not going to disambiguate it since what is created by heart and memory is not translatable into word, it has not to be.

"I don’t think of myself as a perfumer.
I’m just someone who sets a fragrance within the context of a suitable story"

But still with his description about his masterpiece; Fille en Aiguilles; that says:
"Resin, sunshine, cicadas and the shade of tall pine trees. The needles prick your feet, but a stand of pines by the beach is a wonderful thing!"
he points cupid's arrows towards my heart.
I really don't want to be another reviewer who calls this fragrance a Christmas perfume imitating snow covered pine forest atmosphere, however, Fille en Aiguilles is an autumn/winter fragrance resembling untouched cold pine forests in Christmas time surrounding rural European towns where there's no track of car tires and smog (I'm talking about purity of the place); just as pictured in Marc Chagall's paintings. Yet, I really don't know why everybody has neglected its summery side? The picturesque Serge Lutens borrowed the concept of the fragrance is plain and visible: a warm beach with constant irritating-decibel yet lovely noise of cicadas, pines and their cool fresh comfortable shadow that makes the sand beneath much colder than that under sun exposure.
Again, beside so many other fragrances that shoot me back to childhood and happier days, Fille en Aiguilles brings those days in a flashback. Mid and late spring days on sandy solitude and uncrowded seashore with suspended water temperature that you're not certain to swim or not. Pines and eucalyptuses on beach provide a buffer zone between two sunny regions of water edge and back of the beach like a ribbon parallel to where sea's dances finish on water sucking sands and pebbles. The dried and crunchy long pine needles under your feel tickle and needle your thick feet skin which is an incomparable happiness.

I wish I had accessibility to my old photos in my archive right now, however, this photo meets my needs to explaining my point of view on what Mr. Lutens indicated about his feeling behind creations of Fille en Aiguilles.

But of course its concept comes from this summery vision and it is not necessarily a summer fragrance.
Fille en Aiguilles opens so robust with vivid glimmering tone of green pine needle smell, oddly sugary camphorated liquor'ish creamy spices plus turpentine and some incense and fruity vibe that pastes adequately sweet smoky air to the composition. Fille en Aiguilles is soft smoky, freshly coniferous and burning acrid and pungent sexy with promising and religiously hopeful air that reminds me Wim Wenders' Wings of Desire and its post-war hopeful view; religiously but not that spiritual as introduced in Cardinal by James Heeley.

A German poster of Wim Wenders' Der Himmel Über Berlin, 1987
The movie is called Wings of Desire in English

I'm afraid to say the fragrance rather change during time on my skin. Moreover, it is not complicated and multi-faced fragrance to be baffling, although, it doesn't mean that it's simple and monotonic. Behind its sexy dark caramel color it has all the notes listed together in olfactory golden ratio one could blend and that's what makes Serge Lutens high level and that's where anticipations meet reality.

Maybe it's a nice opportunity to talk about a similar fragrance rated by people on Fragrantica: Wazamba by Parfums d'Empire! Well I understand smell relies on body chemistry and skin but not that much that some people rated for similarity of these two perfumes. Wazamba is an incense/resin bomb while Fille en Aiguilles is a slight smoldering smoky pine ballet dance, a real masterpiece in its line for whom I should stand up and clap hand loudly.

Ansel Adams, Lodgepole pines cast long shadows at sunset

Carpe Odor!

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