Friday, February 27, 2015

Back to those glamorous days

MAAI by Bogue Profumo


It was going to be an interview with Antonio Gardoni, the innovative artist behind Bogue Profumo and MAAI, but I noticed he and his respectful artwork has been subjected to several professional interviews before even I smell the masterpiece so I decided to go through the perfume solely upon my own experiences and, of course, borrowing few words from the perfumer that are solved within the text.
Antonio Gardoni is not a perfumer, he's an architect with full passion and curiosity in olfactory fields. His first impressions and efforts in perfumery began long time ago experiencing with plants and organic aromatic ingredients. When I asked him does his passion in his career (architecture) influence his perfumery idea he answered "I don't really think that there is any specific and possible connection between the two activities beside the fact that I'm the same person doing both". Of course there's no common point on which the two fields dialectically meet but I see tails of architectural rational obsessions in creation of MAAI.
MAAI is by far a different case. Meanwhile in the time of synthetic movement in perfumery suddenly an organic based perfume made by someone who doesn't reckon himself as perfumer hits market in very very small amount and with no chance to be exactly reproduced although the material and methods are the same.


Antonio tells the story behind the material used in the perfume: No special secret formulas in MAAI and actually not even some of the rarest materials on the planet, just a lot of good quality organic natural materials with some appropriate chemicals but, yes, it took quite a while to develop it and endless variations.
MAAI opens punchy smelling ozonic and Freonic airy mingled with warmth of green aldehyde notes and high quality unblossomed green tuberose that steps forward and draw up the unusually reinforced and genitally animalic smell. Yet with these all, MAAI is not just another animal-hearted to extend the heritage of the mid-20th top sellers.
My first impression; I found it near to Chanel No5 and some other parallel releases such as Givenchy Amarige but then gradually during next and next testings it unveiled more and more till it reveals completely with very calm yet potentially hardcore animalic force on very delicate and fragile soprano smell of fresh early morning tuberose; then you think the title is perfectly fit!


I'm not actually accustomed to any martial arts but I certainly notice the delicacy and details of martial arts behind their coarse features and their active side beside their tranquility. They're full of humanistic features.
Maai (間合い, with pronunciation like Ma'ayi); I'm not sure if my understanding corresponds; is the title of a concept in Kendo (a Japanese marital art) simply translating to "interval" or "engagement distance" which refers to physical distance between two opponents in combat and the time it takes to cross the distance. This lingual diversity in between Japanese to English that precludes translating this term; Maai; to English in a decent and simple way is exactly parallel to difficulty of traslating MAAI as perfume to words as it literally needs too much words to make a scenario that for sure eventually it becomes exhausting and yet the idea is not probably delivered. Some sort of fragrances must be understood by heart and passion.


MAAI is an animalic striker, a modern retro art nouveau perfume with heavy floral chypre powdery nuances; a buzz smell with that famous urine-like musky floral theme of last century's pinnacle perfumes, however, unlike most of the classic chypre perfumes which are mainly rigid and heady MAAI manifests more dynamic and versatile attributes based on classic compositions. Among all those fragments of the brand-new synthetic revolution with any concept behind that occupied all the shelves in the markets, someone creates something that half of society had forgotten some decades ago what kind of smell used to be evocative and sexy. That's admirable.

Perhaps Alphonse Mucha's lavish and extra-magnificent art is the best example to declare MAAI's delicate and elegant wilderness.

MAAI is brutal/delicate, is sensual/cruel, is dark/glorious, animalic/floral, MAAI is ideal and conceptual. Maybe the juxtaposition of  all these paradoxical features is what makes MAAI complex and outlandish. MAAI is absolutely artistic!


Thanks in advance for Antonio Gardoni for the materials and information he shared with me to conclude in this review :)

Carpe Odor!

Post a Comment