Tuesday, February 24, 2015

How does the earth smell

Sulphur[¹⁶S] by Nu_Be


The titles, the packaging concept and everything this perfume house does is just that cool to deserve a blind buy. I strongly believe that packaging and appearance are as important as the scent itself. I know quite a few examples that how amazingly charm with their appearance which is much higher than their scents. Perhaps the elements of Nu_Be; the new brand and powerful pioneer of synthetic revolution of perfume world; are best opposite examples in the field of design and how simple appearance presents artistic composition which is a routine occurrence among many of the parallel houses such as Fragrance Republic and Escentric Molecules who follow the same policy in design.
About three years ago in 2012 Nu_Be started the line and today has seven perfumes dedicated to seven primeval elements of the origin of the dust and magma that conceive the universe and stars; an artistic inspiration that promises the success and uplifts the whole line parallel to super niche and maestro perfumes that expand to more and more space in the shelves of high-end markets day by day. So, to be honest, the idea is so great, however, Oliver&Co has almost the same cosmic idea about the smell of space, and Blood Concept has somehow similar idea about the origins of the revolution of mankind; blood. Concepts that bring the theory of origins of human to memory.


Sulphur is a 2013 release of the house categorized in Aromatic Spicy olfactory group. Like its siblings, it consists of high dosage of synthetic accords beside considerable amount of Iso E Super and lab-made modern aldehyde notes. The notes; which better to call accords; listed for Sulphur are: Castoreum, Cinnamon, Grapefruit, Rosemary, Cactus, Guaiac, Angelica, Opoponax, Oakmoss, and Cedar (and probably aldehyde notes which are Antoine Lie's signature). Now, bearing the notes listed and the notes public-voted for their bold attendance in mind you may expect a skank herbaceous animalic with sour woody base but you're wrong in high percent! Sulphur opens with gassy soft sparkling sour and freshly chewed cactus plus unripe grapefruit that together with opoponax and its slight resinous smoky feature evoke the same feel of smelling pure sulfur gas: salty, sour, phosphor yellow and nervously bright. Also, it is the aldehyde notes that direct the path of fragrance.

Max Ernst, Murdering Airplane, 1920 (to talk about Sulphur's moral features, it evokes nihilist and hollow senses with profound artistic mood that reminds me some artworks of Dadaism school.)

Then it quickly becomes offbeat and subtle yet it is so acute and radiant. Sort of strange castoreum joins the club with earthy muddy dry way that nurtures the spicy side till they settles on the bed and develop every single minute of the performance. For his recent efforts in Comme des Garçons, Antoine Lie has developed his olfactory world through modern aldehyde themes; Sulphur is a noble examples for that. It is the aquatic/ozonic face of Iso E Super that delivers paradoxical aspects in battle with skank and dusty animalic vibes. The result is a synthesis of acrid acidic calm madness like suspended weather after storm.


Carpe Odor!

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