Thursday, March 12, 2015

Gourmand and nothing else

Sweet Memories by CJ Scents


This few last months (by coincidence or by searching or any possible way that I don't know what to call but it is absolutely chance) I encountered several small and not-so-famous indie niche perfumery houses with talented noses behind. One of these tiny lovely single-parented houses is CJ Scents; a lovely American independent brand by Candice Jurko; manager and the nose behind; whose concept of establishing her brand hit me in heart: I started CJ Scents when I couldn't find certain combinations in commercial/niche scents. I just started making my own. Soon, people were asking to buy them.
She also has been a restaurant manager for considerably long time and that gives me a strong feel of trust that like always as I concern "talent shines where the need of money is not a prime matter".
During a very friendly and cozy chat at the beginning of being friends; because I aimed to introduce Sweet Memories on my blog; Candice talked about the background of the perfume, the notes and so many other precious hints which I'm so appreciated for. If you think such modest houses usually stay narrowly known only in their local, you're totally wrong! Wrong cause Sweet Memories is actually a bespoke perfume for a customer from Sweden that took over 6 months to construct! Of course a big part of this period is for distance and appointments but I think this is enough to make one curious to think "there must be something that a customer trips all the way long and back every time to try and finalize his order" level! And for having it now on my wrist I have to thank him, as well, for letting the perfume to be openly published.

I had found this picture last week and it greatly influenced me the way "Sweet Memories" does. It's a rural Swedish house. In this charming picture the low window and where it meets the ceiling eaves is like Alice's mirror fro me! photo fromSkansen Museum archive.

Notes she enlisted for Sweet Memories:
Amber, tobacco, rhubarb, vanilla custard, vanilla, sandalwood, almond and coffee cake
OK, let's do it live! I have it right now on my wrist and it's probably the tenth; or more; this month cause this perfume in spite of its simple and modest manner has a deep elusive side that must be inspected step by step; however; there's no shifting in common term and the changes from hello to dry down are on slight steep line down with completely blurred edges. I'm gonna write/draft it till the post is ready.
The first layer of Sweet Memories is apparently a weird and adorably twisted sort of gourmand which implies to no specific time. It's like a perfume from a century ago while it's free from any classic composition and it's pretty modern. So how does it smell in the opening?
It's obviously an arrangement of highly usual materials allied in a very unusual way that the whole opening smells oddly beautiful. Smells like old canvas textile saturated by too old linseed oil. It's a kind of floral or let's say sweet damp sandalwood in majority with maybe tobacco (?) and vanilla. I guess, strongly guess, that the oddness of the opening vibe is exactly from almond cause I somehow have the same intriguing stream in Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri. This familiar/odd intro quickly slides into custard cake and vanilla smell with tiny but radiant rhubarb bed that adds springy sourness and joy to the composition.
I seriously admire the perfume for its middle-to-foot performance with unusual cake tobacco smell and sepia picture moods! It evokes happiness and nostalgia together, it smells milky sweet and bitter slight fluffy that's like Christmas time and shopping for new year gifts!


Sweet Memories is under oriental vanilla category but I like to shrink and fit it in gourmand family, nevertheless, I'm pretty aware term "gourmand" in perfume world is somehow a synonym of "silly", mostly because of several inexpensive low level designers and celebrity launches these recent years. But I really want to reminds that there are some sort of "artistic" gourmands in this range that are not lesser than woody sexy blah blah masterpieces, and personally I'm fond of such gourmands. 1969 Parfum de Revolte is one of them!
The only untold fact about the actual perfume is the projection and power. I'm afraid but I have to say with almost moderate power on my skin Sweet Memories could be a better perfume if it would play louder and longer a bit. Or maybe it's not simply for my dark skin cause I see it drives better on feminine porcelain skins.

Carpe Odor!

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