Monday, April 27, 2015

From the remote continent

Bud Parfums
Satyr, If, and Assassin


Bud Parfums is an Australian indie perfume house established by Howard Jarvis; an innovative perfumer, ex-fashion photographer, and herbalist whose efforts result in limited quantity, high quality of material, literally exotic moods and reasonable price. In their perfume boutique you can also pick your desired bottle and refill it every time you visit them. The bottles can be designed for glass artists to make! This must be the very definition of indie art of perfumery! Certainly, you can order your bespoke or chose from the ready to wear limited amount of perfumes Howard have created.


Satyr


As the given title suggests Satyr is a lustful and lascivious active type of modern vintage fragrance with deep inclination to natural perfumery. A retro heritage reminder based of woodsy and floriental patchouli.
Opens dry and floral green with orange blossom in extreme oil form mingled with jasmine and nutmeg to emerge a balance in floral spicy duet. Then (only my guess) hints of ylang-ylang appears imparted with labdanum and patchouli. The fragrance had already shown its true face since the beginning: dense, oily oriental, incense like type of intimating warmth presented but the most skin-mate erotic smells.
Satyr is not a urban type of smell; or at least not in its western definition. As it goes shades on patchouli and oakmoss (a classical duet) appear while we already have patchouli and landanum trying to penetrate the structure of basic skeleton and it is vetiver that keeps the balance of the complete fragrance which evolves after ah hour. It's burnt sweet, semi-smoky, soft dark fulvous brown and mystical.
Satyr has higher than normal presentation; longevity is so good, sillage is great.


Assassin


Assassin is a straight descriptive type of fragrance with easy to solve complexity. Full of easy to guess notes merged in a mystical maze form that differentiating each note needs at least a sample to wear and try as I did! Assassin is a lush spicey gourmand raider with bay rum, dried rose petals and some narcotic notes. A mysterious bright and warm waxy type of ancient organic smell, representing nothing but Middle Eastern crowded bazaars. It's sharp and striking exotic that grabs your attention.
It's a timeless fragrance that inclines more to modern than classics, however it suggest original oriental spicy vibe which might look like classics. Immensely warm, stingy, a bit skank and nasty which I like, without any animalic nuances. It's exactly like a walk in mideastern bazaars!


If


I have been so impressed by the way If presented the most realistic earthy frankincense ever. The volume of the resins is loyally natural and pure as cropped in nature with very very bright and deep newly hint of sawed wood and saw dust.
The opening is on captivating resinous unsweet soft powdery soft smoky air of sacred ancient resin: olibanum. It merges into its mother; the wood; and embraces the whole structure. More than bergamot, lemon is giving the composition fresh lazy leisure happiness. Bay leaf also puts on aromatic side of the composition.
The base of the fragrance is on pale hints of incense swallowed by Jarvis' famous patchouli, sandalwood, and labdanum. It's so sensual, so fluffy and tender like velvet blanket petting nude body.
If is a minimal and naturalistic presentation of olibanum and woodsy accords, composed by few basic oils.
Mellow and moderate longevity and sillage.

Carpe Odor!

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