Friday, April 24, 2015

An Italian classic citrus

O/E by Bogue Profumo

I used to be a classic fan. I don't say I'm changed entirely, so still every single classic masterpiece awakens very deep emotions in my heart and makes it bump faster. Antonio Gardoni, as I explained about him in MAAI, is an Italian architect and a kind-hearted guy whose experimental efforts in perfumery blown up many reviewers' blogs but hardly seen a review on fragrance forums and social media and this informal statistics shows that a bunch of professional perfume lovers and critics get involved with his creations. O/E is his latest artwork; not that massive, perplexing and inexplicable as MAAI.
Have you noticed how citric notes are converted in perfumery in two to three decades? Once again smell some of the most iconic citrus aromatics heritages of few decades ago then let's do it with that of contemporary citric perfumes. Seemingly, the citrus definition in the realm of smell is totally altered. Mr. Gardoni deliberately and bravely (an important matter of fact that I adore Antonio's creations is his freehand and open-minded perspective without any possible concern about IFRA or being misjudged, bearing in mind that there are people who know the true value of such great perfumes) revives the splendor of old class citrus heritages of that glamorous era.
Bergamot, lemon, lime, citrus notes, neroli, lemongrass, clove, black pepper, cypress, pine, juniper, Atlas cedaroakmoss, eucalyptus, camphor, geranium, resin notes, Haitian vetiver, tobacco, animalic notes, patchouli, sandalwood.
What I love in Gardioni's compelling perfumes is the paradoxical feature of the scents that emerge both massive brutality and elaborate delicacy of vintage era together. This aspect is much visible in MAAI than O/E, since the actual perfume is citrus based and citruses barely show this feature up.

I searched all my galleries to find the best fit for this scent but it is really hard to pick the right picture, so finally closed my eyes and imagine a dreamy atmosphere for O/E and then I found this picture.

O/E is a sheer austere citrus opener with utmost melancholic use of citruses ever seen. But it's not insensibly just extremist though, literally, Gardoni has kept the balance between the main theme and punchy shocking opening to deliver the message.
O/E opens with vibrant and surprising citrus assault. Deliberately, as a citrus worm, I swear although I'm atheist, I have't seen such beautiful citric composition for years. It's sour green bitter fizzy smell of citrus peels and lime and lemon intensified with lemongrass which brings more contorted facial impression to the party. A bit later the first layer get forms with upcoming sweaty skin smell that thyme and artemisia are pretty notorious for. The comphorated herbs come after the spectacular opening, plus flourishing floral patch enveloped with soft animalic luxury depth of Iso E Super that draws metallic geranium up.
The grown fragrance show begins within an hour representing a sensual geranium and tobacco promising of a dandy super chic masculinity; a real modern/retro heritage of post industrial early 20th century revolutionary botanic cosmetic products is now shaped. O/E has strong south Italian blood, full of passion, charming, intriguing and nostalgic. It's a real intellectual release appeared in the most appropriate era.

Carpe Odor!

No comments: