Sunday, April 26, 2015

Orto Parisi aromagraphy

Orto Parisi aromagraphy:
Boccanera, Viride, Bergamask, Stercus, and Brutus

Orto Parisi is an Amsterdam-based project including five fragrances delivered by the same author responsible for Maria Lux and Nasomatto perfumes: Alessandro Gualtieri; whose new style in perfumery arguably made him one of the most famous celebrities in this field these last years. He began the line of Orto Parisi after he officially announced that he will no longer add to Nasomatto line. The line's theoretical scoop is to remind us our nature and animalic side of our humanity is tamed and restrained by our growth towards civilization. We forget ourselves, our bodies, parts of it and smell of each part.
The parts of the body that carry more smell are those where more soul is collected.
Orto Parisi includes five fragrances with expected unusual patterns towards the offbeat mood presented in Nasomatto fragrances: Bergamask, Boccanera, Viride, Stercus, and Brutus. All the fragrances are delivered in 2014.
The strong smells have become unpleasant to us, because the excess of soul is intolerable to the extent that our innate animalism is repressed and breaking from civilization.

Unlike Nasomatto which is now almost a mass-marketed niche line, the fragrances of Orto Parisi line seems to be less known and less distributed as they are available only in few online boutiques. Both Nasomatto and Orto Parisi perfumes are common in extrovert DNA of Gualtieri's works that drives egos of all his perfumes. So these five fragrances are less or more on the same ambiance presented by Nasomatto and if you're looking for something innovative in Orto Parisi, you're digging the wrong soil.
This project is my garden I have planted, fertilized, cultivated, and harvested. Orto Parisi states that our body is experienced like a garden, and its smells are a true mirror of our soul.
For his efforts on NasomattoThe Nose had opened his path through this hard to climb mountain of fame in perfume world and became an icon in this field and a pioneer for new generation of perfumers. Gualtieri's trick is emerging a totally modern ambiance in fragrance realm with no root to prior creations that is a considerable success point. Certainly ad campaigns, verbally presented concepts, use of weed as ingredient, and his fashionable way of presentation are all other keys of his successful career.
The idea rooted from the fact that he, my grandfather Vincenzo, used buckets to collect both his needs that timely ended up fertilizing the garden. In his garden hovered an air of infinite.

To my grandfather Vincenzo Parisi and to those that seize the time in experiencing and diffusing the perfume of life.


Viride (means Green in Latin) is a green composition based on herbal grassy notes, slightly sweetened by synthetic woody chord and the same pseudo weed/oud combo repeated in many creations of Gualtieri; a minimal combo that tries to show pompously. What I don't like about the oud Gualtieri employs (less or more the same used in Carner Barcelona creations, specially Cuirs) is its insisting-to-be-Mideastern aspect. His oud is totally watery and kind of mechanical western life ready-to-blend type of oud.
The opening is somehow reminiscent of those artworks of classic era which had been considered very modern and pioneering back in their days (but not a bold reference just a faint remembrance). For such beginning I guess it includes oakmoss molecule augmented by hay and herbaceous notes providing a dry green wild presentation, that sadly lasts about half and hour then it turns to nothing at all (both in presentation and in smell pattern) to a silly level for that I have to say Viride is only an opening fragrance; a facade of a building which inner rooms and structures are all collapsed. No depth, no innovation.
So after about half an hour you; no matter how much do you love it; turn thumb down. The sub layer's scaffolding is tied by uncontrolled use of incognito synthetic woody accords that does not evoke the feel of smelling a fragrance for that it's hard to categorize Viride under a certain aromatic group, and hard to identify it by certain terminology representing specific senses, cause it's a dynamic type of smell that is not a perfume. Anyway, even the opening is quite pale and vaporish on my skin and I'm one of the members who rated both longevity and sillage in Fragrantica to the least extent.


Very deliberate hint of tangerine in the very opening as represented in Jean-Claude Elena's refined colognes collaborating with uncreamy purified bergamot odor is what you get in the opening. The opening is really good with this citric play. I think I get hints of vetiver in the following and it's so pale and smooth, dusty and earthy. A deep and remote sign of soft white musky animalic ambiance changes the whole structure that had presented in the opening and turns it to a watered down soft pretentious "nothing" for that you'll be charged 138€ for nothing especial but a given name and a bottle design! Tried to design a psychotic level of musk and citrus but what presented is totally incoherent to what desired.
Very low skin-dweller sillage and with that mediocre longevity one may think that you squeezed lemon and smell so for that.


Dung? I turned its name from Latin and it means dung! For the sake of that ugly ass in the picture above, the color and the title made me think that someone created a perfume for anal sex concept, but don't judge a book by its cover!
Stercus is an active and urbanized monster in animalic range. Unlike the two I reviewed above this one is much satisfactory and beyond. For the very familiarity to Black Afgano and Pardon in the main theme and specially opening, I've got to indicate that Stercus with its fierce main theme is a complementary edition of Black Afgano. It owes instant synthetic gourmand theme from Pardon and oud green weedy watery vibe of grayness from Black Afgano. It actually much resembles to another Orto Parisi creations which I review in the following: Boccanera.
It’s irresponsible to any urbanization and social life rules, wild and free as a monkey in dark jungles, but it does no hurt. Beside it’s wild and Tarzan’ish attraction, it has a very classy and compliment bringer fragrance, a versatile monstrous fragrance.
The opening of Stercus is green dark and gray with promising nuances of notorious sweetness of punk chocolate molecule employed in Pardon mingled with intense leather subtitles. The very opening show the whole structure of Stercus that like all his creations is full chemical perfumery (nothing to do with that "as all perfumers know, synthetics are the essence of modern perfume. Creating a perfume without them is like painting a picture without blues or reds")! As it goes the vibes of red pepper and chocolate increase and the composition turns a bit sweeter, loses oud air of the initiation. Stercus is not dark or smoky, it's softer and gray misty dry versatile and easier to wear version of Black Afgano and it's nice in fact but it hasn't got anything new and it walks on the way that had been passed by Nasomatto's army before, so if you own each of them, specially Black Afgano, you don't need to smash your piggy for it.
Happily, the longevity and sillage are both enormous.


OK, let's get rid of the house's nonsense scoop on Brutus (Inspired by Roman senator Marcus Junius Brutus, who was known for his lack of eloquence, a heady citrus opening and deeply redolent woodsiness combine for a scent that might try to kill you, but will at least have the integrity to attack you face-to-face.) and judge the scent the way it is and it is really touching. Bearing in mind that a huge percent of Gualtieri's creations contain purely man-mades, my first impression on Brutus was "how gorgeously synthetic science can make replica of all natural scents!". Brutus does not go far in innovation or bizarre atmosphere; and this certainly is the fact behind being so lovesome.
It initiates with chefly blended ripe mandarin with patchouli and unlisted vetiver and cacao. Also I like to share that I capture some gin accord. What is interesting for me is that I don't get the famous DNA of Nasomatto and other four creations of the line in Brutus. Instead, I acquire a twisted warm waxy stony ungourmand candy form that stays paradoxical, yet, constructs an abutment for the main theme. The main theme which was predictable from that brilliant opening is on more patchouli and several synthetics that had not exposed in the beginning and I'm somehow confused with their plurality. All I get is smooth oud accord, some strange sandalwood, soft ambroxan or any sort of fluffy luxurious smooth soapy musky note, and probably some resins and woods. But I can't assure even in slightest percent for any of them instead of sandalwood since this guy usually goes with such unrealistic aromas that one might never directly link to a natural product.
The dry down comes upon defeat of citric layer. Patchouli got married to imaginary cacao and sandalwood (what a hot threesome!) to provide shallow warmth that is controlled and balanced with dusty earthy vetiver. For such mesmerizing long lasting layer, Brutus is the most versatile and mass pleaser creation in the line.
Good longevity but moderate sillage.


As the nose himself mentions, Boccanera derives the main theme from emblematic Black Afgano which is synonym to Gualtieri's manifestos. Translating from Italian, Boccanera means black "mouth" upon that he describes: Nature offers dark holes that express sensuality in an erotic dark way, and this fragrance is no exception.
Boccanera is a gourmand version of what Black Afgano offers; the same weedy vapor encapsulated with chili peppered sandalwood and souvenir from Pardon: chocolate. In a high percent I'm strongly sure that I'm scanning the same chemical oud presented mostly in Nasomatto. That is for the opening where tiny molecules find apt time to show up; ginger, peppers, watery oud and probably weed. For the rest of presentation after about an hour from application, sandalwood sits on the throne; chocolatized and slightly peppered. Tries to expose solid and damp like pure sandalwood but it's really hard to get rid of stain of Gualtieri's notorious chemical oud!
Just like its predecessor, Boccanera performs strong and long lasting with enormous sillage.

In overall, you don't need to collect all the perfume here or in Nasomatto. All I get is a main theme twisted specially for each bottle but still the main theme is the same; kind of signature.

Carpe Odor!

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