Saturday, April 25, 2015

An impressive oud fragrance

Oud Imperial by Perris Monte Carlo

I really don't know the background of this brand and Fragrantica says they are based in Monaco. Wherever they are whoever they are, they do their job the best way! It was last year that I saw Perris perfumes on the shelves for the first. They were new comers and I was pretty excited for the glimmering bottles!
Well Oud Imperial has an interesting note pyramid:

Top notes: jasmine, caraway
Heart notes: incense, patchouli, agarwood, saffran
Foot notes: blackwood, sandalwood, vetiver, labdanum, Atlas cedar

The mentioned notes in the opening layer are pale and the fragrance opens incredibly bold with oud layer and woodsy accords that smells sophisticated. In fact I'm a liar if I say there's no caraway in the initiation cause the woodsy vibe is prettily cured and pickled by the spice but it's not the caraway employed in Parfum d'Empire and Serge Lutens creations. If you're fan of powdery dark woody fragrances you will have been trapped in the first sniff. Beside there's indolic attributed hints on oud, type of sknaky/delightful floral sign that comes from jasmine.
Dear Sebastian Jara has a nice descriptive video review on his youtube channel (Man Loves Cologne) in that he perfectly nails the point all the way down and gives a nice example for the scent: old library! I have to second his point as the fragrance has two aspects a perfume needs to resemble an old library: smell of old timbers and damp nasty smell of old books. I can add something from my own olfactory experience and it's the smell of old carpets rolled and stored in lumber covered dark attic floor. I have to indicate that I might disagree with his opinion about the skanky side of agarwood in this fragrance that he says "it's not a dirty skanky kind of an oud" (with full regards to his knowledge and experience) cause I obviously have the nasty animality of the oud in my nostrils right now. Of course, Oud Imperial is not offensive as Aoud series of Montale are. It's softer, gentle and quite versatile and wearable. A hint of sour damp medicinal vibe; that oud is famous for; gives me the clue that the oud is most probably from Laos. 

A guitar body made of Malaysian blackwood

All the beauty Oud Imperial delivers is not focused upon oud and all since there are two main factors in the combination: incense and blackwood. I have worked with several types of wood for the furniture and sculptures I made but I don't know blackwood and I didn't even know it before I know this fragrance. This wood has a distinct type of smell. It smells like an unique and rare lumber cut under machine saw and this is its mysterious dark sexy smell that makes Oud Imperial an extraordinary offer. You see how pleasantly it amplifies the oud in the rightest possible way and gives it a powdery, dark and darker philosophical facet when the fragrance settles in the base layer. Incense is not a dominant player in this fragrance and beside vetiver and caraway, gives their touch palely  and launch the woody by-play. 
Considering some well-known oud works like Roja Dove's works, Oud Imperial might be in the middle levels but it's a mandatory for every fan of wearable oudy fragrances.

Carpe Odor!

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