Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Aesthetic genocide


Red +MA by Blood Concept


Several years ago, a rumbustious architecture student who used to go with everything specially arts who I was, had weekly sessions with friends to talk about cinema. One week I planned a question about anti-art and gave an introduction on what was Dadaism and anti-art movements which none has approached the final aim because of one unavoidably true fact: human is crazy for art not contrary. Today, actually last year when I sampled Red +Ma for the first, I see how deliberately they reached my point: anti-art or anti-perfume. This moment I'm writing this review I'm happy that I'm not breaking anyone's heart since I do believe that no one would choose Red +MA for signature scent and if you say someone placed an order of it twice I would probably think it's a tasteless retarded April fool.
The day the people of Blood Concept presented Red +Ma in 2012 it was not a big shock cause they had done it one year ago with crowd-intriguing concept or evolution of mankind and formation of blood groups. But is Red +Ma too much in the concept? I mean it's quite normal these days to see such so-called modern humanism conceptualized perfumes as Blood Concept line missing human's originality referring to body as Orto Parisi partially joins the club. If it's perfume I could release a perfume with concept of "we forget where we all belong to" and name it La Mémoire de la Basse-cour; use nasty materials to fabricate dung and hay and flowers, present it in Exsence and find distributors! These are exactly the emperor's mew clothes.


Red +MA is Antonie Lie's work, the same persona responsible for most of État Libre d'Orange and Nu_Be creations and some landmarks as Versace Crystal Noir, Puredistance Black and Comme des Garçons Wonderwood. He's also one of the pioneer faces in new synthetic revolution of perfumery. Seems he finalized his incomplete task on outlandish Sécretions Magnifique with this newer version. The same idea, the same disgusting anti perfume. Perhaps the idea did not fit the physical reality, perhaps the idea is much bigger than to fit in today's limited knowledge of chemistry. Maybe Lie had something different in mind that for poverty of mediums he could not again finalize it. But one thing is planned on the table apparently: it's not a good smell nor mediocre, it is literally bad smell and no matter how the concept is great cause I can't transport it with myself. Smell is representative agent of the abstraction.
There was a debate on sense of smell. One side a chemistry PhD holder whose efforts on aromatics are praised locally and not beyond, a couple of years ago in Starbaucks about the intense smell of coffee, the other side is me, deeply passionate to extract any possible info out of him! He implied that if we had not been or taught that what is dirty or what is beauty we could not differentiate what smell is bad and what is good. A flower could be bad while feces is good or maybe we would categorize them in better way! He gave example of musky notes which are bad cause they smell nasty like urine but they are sexy cause they formula suggests so. So this means if I; by the time I was born; have been left in a jungle like Tarzan growing with gorillas then I would probably not able to ugh to feces cause I would not know if it's a bad thing or good thing. Hmmm... sounds interesting and partially rational but what about Red +MA? Let's say I'm biased by the pre-info I acquired from reviews and news, but those I offered to test without giving any info even the title did the same react I have; repulsing and disgusting. Therefore, his idea about pre-knowledge and smells is partially unapproved.


Red +MA opens with extremely repulsive pattern of sweet metallic creamy thing. It's like someone badly ugly who tries to expose gorgeously with too much make up so the result is horrible. The first layer is on metallic accords, milky, aldehyde and probably something floral mossy. Ugh, I seriously cannot go through it, the maximum durability of my nose beside my poor wrist is only one second. It apparently gives me feel of puke.
This vibe settles down within a quarter of hour and turns into less vibrant but honestly it's not wearable for the first hour of performance. You can spray it on a shirt one hour before you go out!
The shimmering hope I had about Sécretions Magnifique to be a bit wearable is totally demolished in Red +MA. It is a perfume for not wearing, a bottle containing hazardous aroma with about three hours longevity on skin (I don't know how long on textile I don't want such disregards for my nice shirts!) and one first hour bombastic sillage and then close to skin.
My final word is: Red +MA is aesthetic genocide. Don't feel fool if you don't understand this perfume. Understanding beauty and smell is irrelevant to education or social class. But only one occasion can help you to wear this perfume freely: Halloween.


Ps: I found necessary my prior points of view on this perfume. Red +Ma is a perfume I respect a lot, I respect to Mr. Lie as well. This can be a intellectual scent of tomorrow, an against the stream swimmer who is condemn by random taste of the era who try to defeat it to the way they want. Me with my new review included and this can be a fan's reply against my point. Red +Ma, in overall, is a very special perfume for very special people not one who pretends special.

Carpe Odor!

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