Thursday, May 7, 2015

Coffee, cigarettes, and a friendly chat!

Espresso Royale by Sebastiane

This is not a random fragrance nor another wooing niche creation on high end market shelves. This is Porsche sold in price of Volkswagen! I had mentioned once in my review on CJ Scents' that these last years glimmering talented and self-made perfumers in the north American continent are adding more and more stars to this night sky. Now I have to include Robert Elder of Sebatiane Perfumes in the list of those indies.
Is there anything better than a cup of espresso and small croissant in the middle of day? Simply, Espresso Royale evokes that familiar and delightful sense! Rationally and expectedly, Espresso Royale is the most famous of the line and one of the best coffee fragrances my nose has come across. It has frank and straight manner, untwisted and transparent to the depth, minimal in composition and simplex (maybe this word can describe its simplicity in complexity); kind of behavior we pretty know from Serge Lutens perfumes.

Coffee; a not-so-ancient drink but a bedrock of every culture; has most probable renown smell we capture everyday. Roasted round cute crunchy beans in burlap sacks and bulky jars in front of cashier of coffee shops, the black woodsy tobacco-like violate smell of fresh coffee and pastries, mmmm...! But its taste is not great as its smell! Its sexy roasted brown color in glazed marble white mugs and cups is like a painting made by coincidence; what a simple artistic pleasure! And nothing is better to chat and drink coffee with an old friend whom you haven't met for long!

Espresso Royale is a developed coffee fragrance that takes special place in my heart while I'm not a coffee fan. Beside several renown coffee dominant fragrances such as Montale Intense Café, Arte Profumi Velvet Rouge, Kilian IntoxicatedNeil Morris Izmir, and the emblematic Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Coffee, Espresso Royale is now one of the hit choices of endless searches for coffee category.

Notes listed for Espresso Royale are:
Top notes: rum
Heart notes: coffee, hazelnut, caramel
Base notes: tonka bean

The first breezes from Espresso Royale are on pale rum that delivers tasty sugar edge to inducing robust coffee upon which the result is sweet bitter roasted biscuit smell. Some members in Fragrantica mentioned smell of gingerbread which I second. This fragrance in the first level (when it is not mature yet) exhibits kind of happy gourmand dry baked gingerbread specially those Belgian ones! This combo provides a really enticing and hypnotizing delightful opening that grabs and keeps me in. Gradually after the first punchy coffee layer settles to the core of the fragrance the gourmand burnt sugary side calms down to purer bitter coffee collaborated with neutral hazelnut imparted with soft caramel smell who had been assisting rum in the intro.

I think there must be something else allied in the composition cause I'm sniffing something more complex than these few notes. Maybe considerable dose of coumarin provided by tonka bean makes this illusion cause what I'm getting is type of aromatic sweet fresh smell that makes the rigid coffee versatile.
In overall, Espresso Royale is cozy, friendly, versatile, unisex, realistic and retrospective coffee-dominant gourmand type of fragrance with really fair price ($85 for 60ml) and interesting packaging. On my skin it stays for about 4 hours, however not all this time period is organized by strong sillage. For the first hour it jumps out of skin so radiantly but aftermath it ambles close to skin with moderate projection.

Ps: What I don't really get is how some Fragranticans indicate that there's no coffee and it is spiced rum while I barely smell rum and I'm capturing pure coffee smell. By the way, let me show you a trick for Fragrantica! I was confused why some people even rated this fragrance down to depth while I really love it so as some other members. What I'm telling had happened before to me: if you're confused by a negative comment having full balloons beside just dislike the comment and remove dislike, it probably loses so many balloons just I already popped many reviewers' balloons from six to one (seems someone don't love Robert Elder)! Jaw droppingly and so surprisingly, some members build several profiles with several emails to like their own reviews and dislike those they don't like! Seems the admins of the database find and remove the profiles after some complains by other members (which I had done once with a troublesome selfish guy owning a profile named aquila_2009, a balloon prostitute who had more than ten extra profiles disliking me and some friends and liking himself), however the balloons received by erased profiles do not fade away until another activity of like or dislike happens on the reviews! So all you need is dislike the reviews you're confused by and then remove your dislike and see what happens in balloons state. The balloons may not be the right judge to see to what extent a comment helps but they're a reference to find the state of reality sometimes!

Carpe Odor!

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