Thursday, May 21, 2015

From Paris to hot sun of Arabia

Shams by Memo

Clara and John Molloy, the founders of the Parisian luxurious fragrance houses of Memo, has released their first oud based perfume in 2011: Shams or Shams Oud.
Oud, the emblematic note of sun and warmth and indispensable part of new-chypré motifs of perfumery, is one of the most discusses materials with least age in this industrial art. Perhaps the most renown first westernized non-Arabian houses who engaged within oud industry was Yves Saint Laurent with M7 in 2002.
The house's testimony upon their release is:
Shams means “sun” in Arabic. Legend has it that the Persian god Mithra climbed into his gold-covered chariot at dawn and whipped his horses forward to pull the sun across the sky until dusk. But at nightfall, on the verge of disappearing from the horizon, the sun was swallowed by a man, only to return to life at dawn…
The sun makes our hearts swell in a hand-to-hand combat of pepper, ginger and saffron. It dazzles with a thousand desires and gives us power over the days and hours. Everyone gets lost in its scintillating, unreal brightness. Intoxicated with warmth, it accelerates our stride and consumes us in its passion. The only guide in the house of the sun is the haunting music of Oud, its main chords of Tonka bean, its dreams of wood and its promises of glorious love.
First to say, shams is an Arabic term totally irrelevant to Mithraism. It has lingual roots in Mesopotamian god of sun: Shamash; and it is quite rational that shams is deformation of shamash through historical ages.
Anyway, the scent itself is important. Shams has my compliments to the house of Memo whom I'm not a fan of at all. This fragrance is a modern and softened original Arab oud perfume themes. Instead of formulating a western oud composition the nose has reillustrated an oud bases perfume borrowing it from harsh and deep medicinal Arab ones (a large variety of such compositions exists in every Arabian brand). Yet Shams is not an oud dominated perfume and it is spicy.
The rise of the fragrance is plastic semi-soapy deep peppery ginger. The pepper is not a standard pepper, it's stony and bulky. The green devastating feel of cypriol is necessary for pepper to not make a clown of upcoming oud and keep the composition prestigious and classy. The beginning is much vibrant than the calm warm dusty core which is a syzygy of oud, labdanum and pepper highly fogged by high dose of coumarin notes.
Although the oud implemented in Shams is not real oud and it shouts it out from the beginning, yet the composition on this accord is very pleasing and alluring. Shams is a soft yet challenging type of fragrance and surprisingly it is as wearable for women as for men. Long lasting with strong projection, bright presentation and fancy bottle.

Carpe Odor!

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