Sunday, May 17, 2015

Make perfume not hate


PHI Une Rose de Kandahar by Tauer


It was about a month to 2014 new year celebrations that Fragrantica exploded like dynamite by an event post for sample draw of Andy Tauer's new rose, named after its boldest note; Afghan rose. More than 1800 members submitted for 100 samples including me (back in days a middle class perfume lover and reviewer in the middle of way who had discovered high-end and niche world recently and was so eager to try everything); joined the draw immediately even before I read the article! Although I didn't win a sample I received a 2ml from a fragrantican friend few weeks agoI've lost the draw but I learnt something valuable after reading the review and the story behind this phosphorus yellowish perfume.
Une Rose de Kandahar, a perfume which, then, has been published in limited quantity for small amount of its rose source, is now one of the most renown Tauer fragrances. It is for its scarce amount of high quality Afghan rose cropped from Nangarhar province of Afghanistan that the perfume is identified under Collectibles series of Tauer perfumes with no guarantee to be continued or produced in the same quality with the same ingredients as in the beginning.
Afghanistan is one of those countries that these recent decades became a playground for easter-western overpowers violence show off. For such condition no doubt that some affairs grow strange. Well, this region was and is famous for its drug based vegetation on top of which opium is. In spite of government's endeavors and forces against opium trade still this is ongoing here and there since the money it brings is much higher than any other cultivation. But by the collaboration of a German development and aid organization (Welthungerhilfe) with volunteer farmers the famous Afghan rose agriculture has restarted and expanded through eastern regions of its homeland and PHI is the fruit of such collaboration donated to perfume world.

"I am convinced that the world has not seen enough roses, yet."
PHI is a complex fragrance with interestingly crowded note pyramid for a contemporary fragrance.
With poignant tarty apricot and cinnamon it opens. The opening is so strong and ongoing but not punchy into your nasal cause a hint of almond softened by citrus keep it balanced. The beginning of the fragrance; which is the identity of whole performance through rose-cored and faunic luxurious base; makes me double minded and somehow uncertain about its olfactory family. Well I'm capturing gourmand fruity notes, chypré woodsy air and modern floral as much as I get slight hints of oriental. That makes PHI a multifaceted fragrance for me.
The core is gentle and spicy with super hints of pepper imparted tobacco and creamy/coumarin gourmand fruity rose. The rose is not dark and dry as Taif nor fragile and watery as Bulgarian. It is powdery, modest and soft, yet, it is folded and darkened by tobacco and pepper and later, precise dose of ambergris and geranium with probably Iso E Super keep the joy and happiness alive throughout the entire performance.


The fragrance settles in core after releasing its intense gourmand mask and putting powdery creamy ambergris aura on with literally linear and constant play during considerably long time.
There are quite interesting approaches for this perfume. Rose fans usually rate it down cause it's actually a perfume you hardly say it's rosy if you have not been told for the title or ingredients. Some people say it's tobacco some say it's apricot and almond oriented. On the other hand, people who normally don't go with roses or hate roses, in an average, rate it up cause it has a soft and playable versatile powdery rose which is softened by aromatic chypré attributions. More than to be a perfume for rose lovers, PHI is usually not a perfume for rose addicts but a perfume for rosephobics and people in the middle.
Bad or good upon people's commentaries, PHI is by far a distinct type of rose fragrance which has not been experienced before. The beauty it exposes comes from its classic/modern features which left me suspended to pick one.
PHI has considerably strong longevity as expected from the combination of such quality ingredients; about 7 hours on my wrist. Also perfect amplified sillage through linear play. As long as roses give me headache, this may not be a perfume I break piggy  for but I never put down my upheld thumb for it. I really do trust Tauer's talents in perfumery.

An Afghan refugee girl stands with others in an alley of a slum on the outskirts of Islamabad. (Muhammed Muheisen/Associated Press)


Carpe Odor!

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