Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Oud and Oud

Oud Cashmere Mood and Oud Velvet Mood
by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

In extension to his Oud release in 2012, MFK has announced a new line of oud including three (one more joined recently) Laotian agarwood oriented fragrances in 2013: Oud Silk Mood, Oud Velvet Mood, and Oud Cashmere Mood.
My sample of Oud Silk Mood has been smashed and I'm so lazy to order a sample again! This post is only on two other members of Mood series released in 2013: Cashmere Mood and Velvet Mood and my illustration is just representative of a MFK bottle.

Oud Cashmere Mood

I'm entirely captured by the bold opening of Cashmere Mood every time I try. I'm a fan of this kind of oud and the opening is undeniably marvelous. Notorious medicinal feel plus kind of repulsing metallic accord that I love. A bit after this bombastic opening droops down into putrid saline sweaty type of oud which is tolerable only from a considerable distance. All its sculptural splendor becomes suddenly a hollow papier-mâché. Balmy camphorated notes plus vanilla that tries to keep the sweet part up are imposing the oud base. Furthermore, I'm not sure if it's an illusion made upon Kurkdjian's name or it is real, I'm getting the same vibe of L'Malle's chemical side but it's so pale. Integral layer of the core of the fragrance is a sugarless crystalized burnt amber-like resinous vibe that holds the limp aged oud uplifted.
To be honest, Oud Cashmere Mood is not a type of perfume nor type of oud one fall in love for. In spite of its high price and fancy bottle design and "oh my god" artistic concept it has nothing to add to oud world nor to charm a perfume lover; I'm not sure about luxury addicts. So, for the sake of oud, what in this fragrance is suppose to take compliments?!
The basic layer of Cashmere Mood meets softly woody fluffy dose of Iso E Super... anyway, the oud is now terribly aged. The perfume which has constructed upon concept of "enveloping cashmere material over you" is now like a coarse bedwetting blanket unwashed and dried in sun. Cashmere Mood is suspended step of the stork in between natural realistic and bravely presentation of oud oil in one side and twisting presentation of extraordinary and unique oud vibe never experienced before in the other side.
Cashmere Mood has strong longevity but the fragrance shifts immediately after about 15 minutes. As strong as power, projection is so convincing. Not the best oud in the markets for sure, nor even in my top ten oud.

Oud Velvet Mood

Velvet Mood is less or more the same to Cashmere Mood, of course not for the opening. Velvet Mood opens a bit harsher than Cashmere Mood with sparkling metallic creamy spicy theme. It's type of strange dark resinous medicinal aura. Not a spoiled organic pattern presenter as Cashmere Mood is but still has a type of unpleasant air that weaves a carpet for upcoming oud. Oud but firmly kept strong with spice fronted coordination.
In fact in spite of the opening, the core of Velvet Mood is soothing and much fancier than that of Cashmere Mood and it owes its charm to resinous notes that amplify the aged oud and keep it alive. It's way fresh and smoky with uncertain gourmand dusty atmosphere constructed upon cinnamon and saffron which supply dryness and zest to uncommon drift woodish oud. However, it's not a type of wood to convey you out to another world. I'm not a fond of oud wood normally but if I get involved I love it nasty and pornographically intrusive as it is in reality with sour animalic base which is unwearable solely but magnificent in combining with some other elements.
Velvet Mood has strong longevity and good sillage. Almost 5 hours on my wrist with engineerly measured projection: about arm length diameter.

After much more considerable Oud released in 2012, the heirs of 2013 collection seem not to be so convincing. All of them are high priced (275 €) widely distributed in high end markets around the world. It's a big price for such extravagant things but they're neither big perfumes nor big ouds (both of them, at least Oud itself is much better) to even pay for, cause one thing that none of them has is character!

Carpe Odor!

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