Monday, June 22, 2015

Fig carnival!

Fig vs. Fig vs. Fig
L'Arbre de la Connaissance by Jovoy Paris
Figuier by James Heeley
Philosykos by Diptyque


These last times I found fig a very concrete and overpowering ingredient which I to encounter from the beginning and discover its beauty. After my almost first serious meet with fig in perfumery in Thierry Mugler's incomparable art; Womanity, I dug for more and more figs from designers to niches and so on and I found three very near comparable perfumes all by accident in three different times: James Heely Figuire which I tried a couple of years ago, Diptyque Philosykos that was introduced for first this last autumn, and Jovoy Paris L'Arbre de la Connissance which I tested for first a week ago by the time I'm writing this article; and upon which I reshuffled my drawers to pick out Figuier and Philosykos to see whether if I'm getting or not the right point about their resemblance.
Fig is an assertive fruit, both physically and aromatically. It has strong astringent appetizing green acidic acrid sweet vision. For such uncommon taste and smell (every time I smell or eat a fig I feel it comes from another planet!) fig is one of the most adorable and uplifting fruits that treats like no other fruit in perfumery. Actually fruity tag usually bring silly plain and shallow lollipop smells to mind but fig acts like a zested wood, complicated and an amplifier. Maybe it is for this unusual manner that the fruit is sacred in some cultures, the fruit of lust according to some others, and considered as tree of philosophers in some believes. However it is, it has a face that I love and it's Pan's naughtiness plus Dionysos's comfort plus Pluto's wisdom all together.



L'Arbre de la Connaissance


What a good title for a fig woodsy perfume portraying fig tree's twisted and thick flexible root and broad smiling light velvety leaves. L'Arbre de la Connaissance (The Tree of Knowledge) has certain facet of fig tree; too much fig and fig leaf to show up a natural touch. This is the drawback of fig: unless collaborating with some sweetness, it reveals the synthetic side of accord and Jovoy's fig is so. L'Arbre is exclusively presentation of green notes and green side of raw stony figs with acidic metallic atmosphere that illustrates postmodern fresh electronic music of big parties. It's actually way too active and energetic to be a philosophical perfume.
The opening of the fragrance is a bit repulsing till few minutes when it settles in unassured good or bad type of fresh gourmand smell with vivid vibrant colors of Benetton.
L'Arbre on my skin has medium longevity and strong sillage and for citric play in the opening and sandalwood accord in the end which brings smoothness to fig, it is either a party smell or a feminine daily signature scent. Not formal, not official nor definitely the best by Jovoy. This is Pan's fig! Pool party informal fresh fig.


Figuire


Figuier is a complex monotonic fragrance ironically or purposefully modestly named simply fig. I found this one more enjoyable and easy to wear for both sides while I think although the opening goes more masculine the dry down goes more for ladies.
The opening of Figuier is not so distinct to what happens in L'Arbre. Same acidic acrid bombastic smell; here charged with delicious melon. Melon appears at the beginning and surprisingly it stays for long. For some aspects of it, Figuier resembles Carnal Flower in some minor detail that come from naughty melon. Fig leaf in Figuire is round and refined, not edgy and sharp like in L'Arber though it is reinforced by active rhuburb. It has aquatic savory visions and less crispy than over-crisp L'Arbre. Figuier is a vegan type of fig (referring that fig has a meat-mate smell that fits any kind of meat gastronomy) and it is provided by fresh and vivid grassy notes: some vegetable plus fresh hay. I said everything significant about the perfume but honestly all this glamorous opening is nothing when the glorious dry down appears. The complete fragrance is fluffy and aerial heavenly lazy smell of ambergris (if I'm not misguided by melon) plus fig leaf. This is cold golden sand under cool shade of broad palm leaves and that vague lullaby of sea in your sleepy head; what a pleasure!
Figuire has strong and satisfying longevity with enormous sillage on my skin. This is Dionysos's fig! Enjoyable memorial summer evening fig.



Philosykos


This is way different to the other two examples. Philosykos is the most natural, or let's say the most loyal-to-nature one among the trio (as expected from Diptyque).
With some fat rounded balmy bubbly smell of something aquatic it initiates towards transformation of saltless marine vibe to fig outfit. The punchy opening has a floral definition plus strange unlovable yet pure natural smell of greens. It's not green nor fresh or bouncing; it is dramatic and dreamy. The fig which patiently appears a bit later since application has ripe and sweet happy quality which is sun-oiled and sun-bathed by coconut. Coconut, you know its downright amazing gastronomical dense oily smell. It boosts warmly and reminds nothing but summertime and sexy body! Now one who's not tested Philosykos might think that what a wonderful sexy blind buy which is definitely not under any circumstances! Usually you don't have to expect sexiness or kind of charm from Diptyque. Actually it is controlled by camphorated notes to not be sexy but be natural. Philosykos is leafy fluffy watery rounded evening perfume with non sweet fig and green opening and a little bit sweet core which coconut and fig leaf smell a bit like watermelon in fridge. Camphorous, leafy, freshening but not sporty or kiddish, stylish and identical. Maybe not my cup of tea cause this definitely sits more on feminine side from top to toe, but notably a great scent.
What is graceful about Philosykos is its linear performance on monotonic integrated pattern, long lasting performance and great sillage. By the way, it's upon my EDT version.
This is Pluto's fig! Mature and grown formal fig.

Carpe Odor!

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