Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Le nez d’Or

Les Nombres d’Or by Mona di Orio

It is hard to explain Mona di Orio's olfactory world in just an intro paragraph of a jam review for four fragrances, but I may start this way that it happened for the first by Cuir this winter which blew my head away: immense severe yet gigantic luxurious animality that I still believe it cannot be born by a woman! My journey began and I looked for a bunch of her perfumes, talking with some people who I knew for their interest and enthusiasm in Orio's arts and so I've been suggested to start with her paramount collection Les Nombres d'Or. I publish my review with female pictures for each perfume not because I found the scents feminine but to emphasize the load of delicacy and luxury the perfumes deliver.


What Musc says is all about skin. Musc is a type of clean and skin-mate fragrance with dreamy floral and semi-vintage art nouveau style, highly fashionable and easy to wear. In contrary to the other animalic item of the seires; Cuir; it is fragile and soothing that one may want baptize with and smell it infinitely and divinely.
Musc opens with crisp saline floral theme based on angelica's bitterness, rose's metallic depth and of course the queen of the night: heliotrope. In the middle of way when the unfloral opening of flowers settles, musky note appears; soft alluring and astonishing. But what links these all powerful undialectic parties together is coumarin accord which delivers fluffy mood and versatility to potentially beasty composition. One thing is not listed anywhere but I apparently capture is vanilla in the middle of performance mingled with heliotrope which reduces its plasticy air to rounded ambiance. Is that this hidden vanilla bonus that makes Musc this glorious?
Seemingly Musc is a skin qualifier perfume, stays for long on one's skin and short about 3 hours on one other's. I'm one with the others! And for its sillage it's not a type of fragrance to leave a trail or enormously bloom out, it nebulously embrace around you. Yet, a brilliant animalic based floral night fur.


Simply named and thoroughly composed with minilalistic notes; Vétyver is a gem.
Unsurprisingly Vétyver does not bloom with recognizable touch of vetiver as usually happens in perfumes which contain the element in high amount. It opens out with high-amplified spice and citric play on classic cool fougére and chypré mood. Creamy fresh but burning. This theme draws vetiver up which is not fresh, not silly nor simple monotonic like most of those vetiver dominated fragrances that present it incessantly as bold as no one has ever discovered before and it is the first in history that vetiver and human come in a cross point in perfume realm.
Vétyver is vetiver cooked by fiery dragon's breath and warmed up with fresh smoldering ginger, sweat like herbaceous clary sage and incense behavior of cedar. Vetiver in Vétyver is quite mature, plush, and ornamented unlike barefooted Guerlain Vetiver which more than a fragrance is like a souvenir from India. Certainly for this approach to the root it probably loses some fanatics of unpolished vetiver cause this element in its raw form is quite charming among groups of people.
White musky vetiver and fresh spicy oriental damp. Vétyver is very long lasting, very strong and punchy and it spreads about a meter around.


Ambre; straight in one word; is a Middle Eastern luxury gem. This is way different to many amber perfumes I know. I like Mona di Orio's abstractions and twisting notes for simple names. There's a playful releasable prototype in her collection mush higher than many complete fragrances.
It is spicy crude-petroleum-like benzoin/labdanum (it is mentioned ylang ylang, I'm afraid I'm getting labdanum) amber married to tolu balsam which gives it stony powdery definition and vanilla which smoothens the entire faunic performance. Also cedar which like a politician stays at back but greatly influence the resinous gesture, shows up in the middle towards dry down when tolu balsam's Play-Doh type of smell intensifies.
Ambre is not a mist around you, it is a character itself and it insists its presence. It is juxtaposition of cluster of notes merged in a central core that looks impenetrable; a simple yet fourhand creation to signify that art is probable with few elements around not thorough complexity, and how gorgeous Mona di Orio created such complexity out of simple elements.
Ambre is mellow in longevity, about 5 hours not considering the fully vanilla ylang ylang dry down that sits close to skin to give it a divine sexy cladding. The projection of the fragrance is soft and misty, vaporizes around like heat of body and envelops close to skin.


Cucumber pickle smell of the beginning whiff of Vanille surprised me and made me intensely curious about this perfume and why is the modest random title chosen for such complexity; which increases no curiosity at all? Am I smelling a distinct type of vanilla from a bygone barely visited Polynesian island? Honestly I was expecting a generic vanilla smell with Teddy bear type of fluffiness but this is one of a kind and a distinct composition on vanilla not on top of elements. This is how vanilla should smell in a Ferrari.
I realized that this boozeless boozy opening on crispy crunchy notes is all happened by metamorphosis rum implements in bitter orange and what a citrus! I love bitter orange deep by my heart but frankly I have not seen any better and purer bitter orange in entire perfume world.
I found Vanille an Italian perfume, very Hellenistic. Simple and masterly crafted, very pleasant and nature-loyal. It is based on elemental ingredients of perfumery and just like the other gems of the collection it has the same gold and bronze quality of notes composed on few elements and strong personality. Seem she wanted to approve how a golden nose works.
Vanille is a spicy bomb, fresh smoldering and yummy crispy. The citric opening of the fragrance is highly occupied by booze and then cloves (also I apparently get star anise) that evokes the crisp savory smell; no place for vanilla and woodsy army of the skeleton yet. The transformation of first chapter to what I called a vanilla baroque art is x-faded with lowering citric booze and intensifying vanilla and woods.
This is for sure the best among these four I tested these days. Vanille is way classified, artistic, aesthetic and poetic. I'm totally satisfied and beyond by longevity and sillage which separate it to a higher class.

Carpe Odor!

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