Saturday, June 13, 2015

Post-industrial olfactive philosophical silence

Pekji: aromagraphy

Ömer İpekçi is a new face in perfume world from Istanbul. His efforts is perfumery and smell realm concluded in his personal indie house named after his surname: PekjiÖmer is a graphic artist and illustrator and an experimental perfumer as he introduces himself a "self-made guy". This apparently shows a big deal in the trend that we're observing more and more indies and experimental houses join perfume world.


The term "niche" which was almost unknown for most part of the world of perfume lovers about two or three decades ago (just as uncommon as reviewing perfumes with limited capability of internet and unfashionability of scent art back in days) is now a commonplace randomly given title to any new coming house engaging with a bigger sponsor in Esxence catwalk. This vast ocean of shops encourages several houses to join so-called niche market and grow toward luxury no matter whether how good or mediocre quality is.
Happily soon after, parallel to that, the gap of "what about quality?" that overnight brands left is fulfilled with people responsible to their personal interests in fragrance toiling for love in first and not money; we don't name them but a big part of this deal is merged in indies. Beside this fact, I love unlimited experimental innovations indies express; for such qualification there's an extended list of hardcore perfumers on top of which Slumberhouse and Olympic Orchids are flags on Sagarmatha. Pekji is one of those I have to point straight out with finger to example for those innovative freehand perfumers and a new face in perfume world with strong step at the beginning of its journey. Honestly I'm so happy that I discovered the line and am one of the first who writes about it.


For me all five perfumes has a common blood that makes me excited and it is kind of post-industrial olfactive philosophical silence in a crazily crowded metropole like Istanbul. It's like being deaf in heart of Taksim square, like being a pigeon napping on edge of a rusty tin roof of an old republican building near the salty water and oily rats of the harbor that hosts lazy broad-breasted ships. It does not mean the scents have feel of fresh relaxing mood; not at all; in contrary; they are sleeping dragons. They are charged with rebel metropolitan feel but not being infected by crawling in chaotic livelihood syndrome. Pekji perfumes are not what fit the words, they are all mandatory to test; perfumes to approve "art is not resulted only by complete shelves of ingredients".
“Odors have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances, emotions, or will. The persuasive power of an odor cannot be fended off, it enters into us like breath into our lungs, it fills us up, imbues us totally. There is no remedy for it.”
Patrick Süskind
Das Parfum: The Story of a Murderer



Ruh


My humble compliments to Ruh (literally means soul). This is one of a kind floriental gem. This fragrance is so edgy and heady with type of immensely attractive/repulsive floral pattern. Type of desiccated smoke-cured rose coffee fragrance with freshly cropped cardamom and saffron dressing. How deliberately he come with saffron's reality. I adore it. I'm a saffron expert by blood. It's our tradition, a part of our diet, a part of our culture and hospitality. I know many saffrons by smell and what I scarcely seen in saffron based perfumes is presenting saffron's medicinal vibe which in my opinion is its beauty and identity but being afraid to make skank atmosphere it is usually emitted while making the accords. Ömer loyally lets the spice live its own way and saffron in return delivers his Ruh a peculiar and unique inexperienced dimension. Another factor that makes Ruh precious is remarkable overlapping of rose with saffron and oud and spice catalyst. The spicy theme evolves into type of fluffy naphthalene mood: powdery, smoldering ambery and aldehydic. It is the spicy feel that elaborates mainstream rose to a vibrant artistic level for which I gains my bravo! Yet with these all Ruh is a mainstream creation of Pekji considering the other ones!
Ruh has about five hours longevity on my skin and soft floating projection with about 2 feet diameter to make it a close contact beauty; a personal take of rose and saffron.


Eaumer


Here's a pretty play with words: eau mer (sea water) and it's resemblance to Ömer and summer. Eaumer is an aquatic fragrance totally irrelevant to what Alberto Morillas has delivered for Bvlgari.
Eaumer is crisp and effervescent saline citric green leafy with bold petitgrain and probably bergamot and neroli that swirls into dusty frosted inexplicable type of poetic marine vibe which I had experience in L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme composed by Jacques Cavallier in1994 for Issey Miyake. By this category I have to classify three aquatic classes: one is transparent like Bvlgari Acqua Pour Homme, another group contains salty seaweedy creations as James Heeley Sel Marin, and now this frosty salty group; crispy and savory salty. A backstage of fresh gasoline smell (I have to thank Alfarom for giving the idea in his review) is the link point of metamorphose of the citric glassy opening to agile tingling vetiver in the basement. I'm not normally convinced by vetiver this last times as this element goes too much selfish and linear and exhausting sometimes but Eaumer offers very expert arrangement of notes with x-fade edges of one layer to another. Vetiver appears in the right moment and last for the persuading durability.
Unlike most of aquatic colognes Eaumer is a stubborn one to fly. This potentially meets half of expectations of summery aquatic lovers who are mainly disheartened by notoriously poor longevity of summer colognes and commonplace crowdpleasing sportish party smells. The other good news is it has vast sillage too.


Holy Shit


Holy Shit is not an easy perfume to carry on, neither the title nor the smell. It's a type of perfume requires complete dedication and self-assured personality to wear otherwise; honestly; don't even go with it cause it's playing with lion's tail. I have to confess as a weirdo perfume lover that it's been a long time I have not been surprised like this.
Holy Shit is a strong solid animalic hardcore incomparable to any type I know cause even the most brutal examples present capability and versatility a perfume needs to be worn but Holy Shit is not easy to wear perfume, this is a museum of smell in a bottle.
Holy Shit opens with trenchant powdery leather smell just as alive as an animal: warm, breathing and unashamedly realistic. This kinky animalic show is the main theme of the fragrance and it makes me wonder how such gigantic molecule performs from alpha to omega of the fragrance. I'm afraid to call it leathery or musky. A generic term of animality may be the only definition which comes in handy cause this theme is not a known benchmark; definitely a astringent odd kind of smell. However, it develops toward sweet balsamic addition that makes the overall composition smelling like corn baked on smoldering coal! Yes this is the point. Baked corn and animality, like a manger full of chewed corns and intense permanent olfactory track of bulky pigs who left the place already.
I can talk about this perfume few paragraphs more and describe it precisely step by step but it is not helping and I strongly advice do not buy without testing. This is perfume not for perfume lovers, nor for niche lovers, or indie lovers, etc. but only for daring expert perfumistas. It has higher than enormous longevity on my skin and great projection but not that vast to make you worry to smell like a character jumped out from George Orwell's The Animal Farm.



Cuir6


Leather is luxury and unavoidably charming and this must be the leather. This is damn good! Gave me an olfactory orgasm! Cuir 6 is definitive step in leather without going beyond the borders of melancholy and logic with wealthy gothic nuances. The utmost wearability a leather perfume can go further and a type of fragrance one may hate of love and nothing in between.
Chamois leather smudged with gasoline splatter rubbed off from engine of a steampunk tuned truck. This is Mad Max in olfactory world. A brilliant monstrous concoction of birch, musky leather, saffron and probably delicious labdanum.
The opening is so hard and aggressive yet elaborate and bravely conducted. Again the gasoline vibe of blue gray smell of half burnt fuel in early winter morning makes the perfume much deeper than what was in the opening. It settles and spicy ambry tone comes up. For long time I was stunned by Histoires de Parfums Pétroleum since I'm crazy for smell of petrol but this one.... A friend once suggested me for careful use of "masterpiece" for every perfume I love but what else shall I call it?
Cuir 6 is dark powdery dusty leather spice opener that settles in modern chypré leathery skeleton. One side it presents hints of classic leathers, one side it goes with hard rock head.
Cuir 6 has strong longevity and sillage on marvelous hardcore opening and then it stay misty around you when it settles down in gentle but corrupt pornographic manner! It's one of a kind.



Odoon


Odoon (odun in Turkish means firewood), last but not least is an incense oriented fragrance. My first impression on my first try on Odoon was not really convincing. I was expecting an immense woodsy fragrance by the title but then in subsequent testings I realized it has sufficient incense potential yet not very convincing for my Gothic taste but quite impressive for public.
Odoon according to those other siblings is the most decent and acceptable one. It opens with vinegar smoky balsamic plugged-in woodsy plasticy aura. The opening and the overall design for its incredible wood camouflaged incense reminds me of two similar examples not for the woodsy side of the fragrance but for its arc-welding smoke variation: Comme des Garçons Black and Amouage Fate men.
Personally if I was in his shoes.... I don't know what I would to do but I feel something is missing! Yet I somehow am not convinced by this last one but you don't take it on account cause this is my personal point of view and comes from experiencing weird and arguably artistic fragrance I did. Odoon is yet much higher than expectation of a mediocre perfume love level.
Again like all the creations of the house I have nothing to add to your worries about longevity and sillage, both on top.


Final words; Ömer İpekçi has my second bravo this time for the packaging. Now this is quite normal that an architect obsess with design and appearance. Aesthetic factor of a perfume is what I highly concern with. One thing I seriously cannot take about indies (although I have many friends from this this range) is their poor bottle design criteria with almost any random circular or rectangular based bottle and low quality printed tags. Pekji, for graphic artistic background of the designer, covers this lack with kraft box design, simple yet convincing for a set of post modern fragrances.

Carpe Odor!

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