Friday, June 26, 2015

That tender scent of hospitality

Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi


For his multi-faceted classic Roman style of perfumery, Lorenzo Villoresi is a distinct face in perfume realm while his art is intimated with conceptual expression of smell. Villoresi's style is commonplace among Italians: botanical, nature-loving, dramatic, and clear type of fragrances which are more like to be ancient pharmaceutical and aromatherapic formulas remained chest to chest from ancient Aegean civilizations till today. Every time I try a perfume from Villoresi I feel hearing opera from a remote open space few streets away (not about Alamut, it's a composition carrying his signature but not a Villoresi perfume in my idea).
Yerba or yerba maté is a variety of evergreen tea (not actually a tea relevant species, but only a green beverage softly steamed by boiling water) from holly family widespread in south and central American continent, in Bolivia, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, partially Brazil, and also in Syria and Lebanon to which the plant is imported from Argentina. The plant is a shrub that grows up to about 15 meters till it forms like a tree. It is believed that leaves and twigs of maté contain considerable amount of caffeine for that the beverage is a traditional energetic drink.


Tea, in every culture, is emblem of hospitality. Its smell is inviting; any kind of tea is so. Just like Yerbamate which blooms out with simple and strong herbaceous welcoming aura that evokes sense of trust and friendship. The intro of the fragrance is on bitter and super realistic hay and grassy mate mingled with Villoresi's famous special spice mixtures. He's definitely a chef in perfume world. For his special blends of greens, spices, and woodsy compositions he has a developed and seriously experienced nose to detect and decypher and reassemble all the smells in 3D quality: all integrated yet apparently detectable. That's the reason I have to take hat off for his efforts and knowledge.
As usual Villoresi's implemented notes are crowded as an bazaar: fresh green and lemony notes, tea, aromatic herbs, maté, mint, tarragon, rosewood, ylang ylang, green notes, herbs, hay, lavender, galbanum, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, aromatic woods, a touch of powder and spices.


Foods and breads, drinks, music, customs... these are what people and cultures around the world are significant for. These are our identity, our spirit and intangible heritages. Isn't beautiful to capture an important part of identity of a culture and form it to perfume language and introduce it to world? Perfume by far is message in a bottle and Villoresi keenly knows it by heart. Of course perhaps not everyone can send this message in its favorable literal format as Villoresi speaks with his nose. His creations are simple and straight to heart; maybe for that they are exciting and alluring.
Yerbamate grows towards the heart getting far from herbal shop atmosphere. This is rather complicated than to match words to sensation.  Bitter creamy lavender, grassy dryness swelled with mentholated tea and sprinkled with chopped tarragon and twigs of hay, filtered and woodened by Villoresi's magic wound: rosewood. The vibrant excitement of the initiation is not settled but its bold bitterness which inherits from mate is like happiness of having guests in your home! I love it so much!


Yerbamate is a fine fragrance that evokes sense of trust and it's not a little thing for a perfume. It is fresh stingy grassy, realistic and autumnal, nostalgic and classical, casual and identical. A type of lover or like perfume; I believe that no ont would hate it. It has about 8 hours of longevity on my skin over a sample vial and I'm sure if it was spray sample it would stay even more and perform better. Not a type of easy fragrance to blind buy but definitely one of a kind perfume in tea and green range.

Carpe Odor!
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