Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Vetiver catwalk!

Vetiver catwalk!
Lampblack by Bruno Fazzolari
vs
Vétiver Extraordinaire by Frédéric Malle


This is not a post to identify two biggest vetiver perfumes, nor a post to compare two great vetiver and see which is good and which better and so on. This is a review on two distinctly different vetiver perfumes, totally out of each other's world and this is why I chose them. First it was going to be a review exclusively on Lampblack but I noticed as an indie with less than a couple of years age it is precisely and faultlessly described by other bloggers so I didn't find it requisite to put another brick on the wall. Therefore, I picked an issue to present two different gems of vetiver world together to make the fun bigger!
At one side, Lambblack, a postmodern artistic form of vetiver breaks the ground, at the other side, the same classical pure vetiver in its natural form is showcased by a billionaire heir of East India Company, Mr. Extraordinary! Both are jaw dropping, both are premium and the best in their own group.



Bruno Fazzolari Lampblack


Without annotation about Bruno Fazzolari's artistic career and paintings, I go directly to the perfume which is the result of his efforts in perfumery as an indie perfumer.
Lampblack, so as named, is an intellectual twist on vetiver. This perfume is freshness absolute, a postmodern mythical humor with fresh happy yet Hades type of blackness and frosted smoky tranquility which dark smoky vibe of kerosene lamp soot is injected to the scent and is not potentially from the composition. This reminds me a very underrated but overly-sold-in-time perfume: Lalique Encre Noire delivered in 2006 by Nathalie Lorson. Yet there are bold differences in scent patterns.
Lampblack starts with corrosive and savory nuances of freshened smoky woodsy vetiver escorted by unzesty grapefruit and black pepper which amplify freshness and smokiness, respectively. There is a paradoxical theatrical moody personality: sadness and happiness. Happiness is for elements of opening which are grapefruit and pepper and what makes vetiver poetically and drizzling gloomy is cypriol for its Hamlet character syndrome. With these few simple elements of ingredients plus some others responsible for slight sweetness of dry out, Bruno Fazzolari has interpreted a new definition and a buzz name in vetiver perfumery.
I've received many bright compliments while wearing it on my backhand for testing which also showed how great and vast is sillage and how strong is longevity.
Minimal and innovative stylish earthy smoky vetiver which has special room in my top ten vetiver list.



Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire


I believe there is a schism in vetiver dominated perfumes. Two types: one group is vetiver-dominated but not solid vetiver like Lampblack, Serge Lutens Vetiver Original and Comme des Garçons Wonderoud, the other side holds solid vetiver play which considerably holds larger number of people. This type of vetiver is its classical and traditional form like as it's presented from the orient back in days. Linear, solid, ongoing and mature like a dandy man in his 35 to 40. Yet there are two undeniable realities about vetiver; first that it's not  feminine ingredient, second that it is so overpowering so it perceptibly surpasses all the elements of composition. There are too many creations for this group and dramatically legendary Guerlain Vetiver is the most renown.
Vétiver Extraordinaire evokes the utmost level of satisfactory when solid vetiver fans must take note. This last year and these days I'm not satisfied with solid vetivers and I gave away my vintage Guelrain Vetiver to my brother cause solid vetiver perfumes perform so linearly and so long lasting that make me exhausted, but recently got my nose on this vetiver and...
Alongside to those noble emblematic vetivers, Vétiver Extraordinaire is an utterly luxurious gem. Chic, dandy, high class, standard and formal. Formal, I mention cause normally vetiver expose a hippie orientalist humility and thug life mate kind of smell, free, unashamed and modest monk'ish. But Dominique Ropion's perfume has hidden or overcome that side and tamed the vetiver into tuxedo and bowtie to agree with everyone.
The beginning of Vétiver Extraordinaire is on citrus verge and bold pepper notes (for some aspects I feel white pepper not pink as listed). Very slight hint of classic citrus reveals a dose of neroli while it's camouflaged by modern take of bitter orange. Soon after, vetiver shows up and its classic tailor cut royal and wealthy. This is the moment of pure joy and comfort. This nose-petting fluffy frosty vetiver linearly plays till the drydown, which is a warm, resinous, woody air, and its freshness is never reduced from the beginning to the end.
Moderately fair longevity and enticing soft sillage, not convincingly strong.
Auric quality royal and Maybach-mate vetiver.

Carpe Odor!

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