Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Faunic splendor

Animality: a review on Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens and Musk Tonkin by Parfums d'Empire

Minotaur kneeling over sleeping women, Pablo Picasso, 1933, Etching

As for pure musky perfumes I found the category vacant. I haven't approach this ostentatious animalistic range for long, so I found a leisure time to pick and interpret what I have tested. I chose two not-so-similar specifically musky creations of art (that does not mean I neglect other cult gems, but I avoid to write on it too much cause musky perfumes are exhausting for many people by default, even in written form) to review and this review is not a comparative study; it is only introducing two different take on musky notes. Two edgy luxurious retro modern animalics; pure and straight to the point; both are famous for their solid animalic themes; both are infamous for majority part of perfume lovers; and both are gigantic.
Musk has always been a cornerstone in perfumery from early ancient times and still (though man-made, though natural; though high level, or cheap) is one of the most necessary ingredients to deepen a composition and give it enchanting dimensions. Yet, when it comes to its solid and dominant form it repulses. Many people cannot bear its smell. One fact that makes musky perfumes repulsive or lesser rated is because circumstances for setting it to outfit is still unclear. Solid musky perfumes are very rigid to wear easily or fashionably. They look formal but their dirty faunic attributions are in high contrast with formality. Rightfully; maybe haste to acquire favorable impact in short time (while musky perfumes perform scratching kinky in opening) is another factor for rejecting.


Muscs Koublaï Khân by Serge Lutens

To begin I pick the one I give utmost compliments to: the notorious faunic skanky creation of Serge Lutens which is a red line of "no trespassing" even for many perfumistas. Once; as I mentioned it in my review on Fille en Aiguilles; a friend declared "Serge Lutens for his mysterious omen atmosphere is David Lynch of perfume realm". Well I prefer to call him Fellini or Bergman for his creativity which is his coat or arms and responsibleness towards quality, since I found his perfumes much maestro crafted than to be mysterious or seductive. Also I found them tamed and quite wearable.


Mythically thick is what Muscs Koublaï Khän says. Thick as fir boots, thick as body of wrestlers, thick as Mogolian throat-singing, and velvety and delicate as silk and fir.
The opening of Muscs Koublaï Khän is highly imposed by Sheldrake's renown cumin (the note that materializes and identifies Serge Lutens perfumes) mingled with civet and musk (I believe there must be beaver's also included cause its corn-like smell gets sharp few minutes after application). For such titanic animality the opening is apparently skanky and it remains so till the heart level of performance.
It's a king size alley of brutality and beaut, integrated and tightly woven within. I might not be a fan of such solid musky performances personally cause I have difficulty to wear, but Muscs Koublaï Khän is one of those I always wanted to have a bell jar in my collection cause whoever tends to animality and leather, would definitely take hat off for such seductive art.
You may not be so impressed by the main theme of opening and half of performance in general but I assured you no one dare to reject the the empirical out-of-this-world musky undertone in core of the fragrance when it eventually settles. It's like rubbing velvet blanket over nude body. I love this aspect of musky fragrances. No other type of fragrance gives me the same aura and pleasure. They are inexpressibly and enigmatically enchanting fragrances. Even a random moderate musky creation like Kiehl's Original Musk gives that fresh warm skin-mate seductiveness.


Muscs Koublaï Khän is a rare type of musky fragrance, a bold and premium special fragrance based on musky-spicy and floral (yet animalic aspects of labdanum and fluffy touch of rose in dry down amplify its eroticism) scaffolding for special audience and special occasion.
I guarantee its longevity to be one of the most adorables; approximately more than a complete day including shower and sleeping. Very keenly and masterly, its sillage is controlled to close distance (about one meter in radius) to not deliver aggressive or coarse features of musk out.
Ancient wealthy pure class musk.



Musk Tonkin by Parfums d'Empire

My review on Musk Tonkin is upon samples of its latest launch (cylinder golden cap not crown one) so some slight things may alter in details but I usually avoid to go through details in my reviews cause the message is always transferred in mass; details are for personal capturing.


Must Tonkin is way different to what happens above. For some particularities it is much wearable and acceptable comparing to Serge Lutens', yet it is as severe as many people would not prefer to wear, in which I'm not listed! I have always vacant room in my collection for animalic and leathery monstrous perfumes and always enjoy their enchained brutal sumptuous Gothic air. Musk Tokin is relatively recent release of the house. A 2014 eau de parfum based on floral and musky accords.
The twisted luxury dressed urine like opening of the fragrance shocks you immediately. It's a luxury/unfit half a world away. This is alert for the individuals looking skeptical to perfume notes in which musk is enlisted in bold amount! Nevertheless, it's not only animality in the beginning. It is tamed by floral and probably orange blossom notes. Something like heliotrope imbues musky theme (it's just a guess, don't count on me). Usually no source reliably mentions the notes accompanying in Musk Tonkin cause the house has not revealed it. Right, it is a great scent to expose up publicly. But those responsible for perfume factories of course are masters of decyphering! Even me, with my moderate nose can tell apart some of them: definitely citrus and citrus blossom in the opening plus floral notes: gardenia and heliotrope... Let me use it within the text.

I found this deer picture much fancier than any published musk deer in the internet, so pardon me for using this one!

Musk Tonkin is powdery and a bit boozy in the beginning. But it shows up bountiful dose of musky vibe (deer musk as it is named) allied with floral theme.
The basement when the fragrance settles in dry down shows up more classic patterns: oakmoss, honey, and probably patchouli are over there beside musk which is suave and dandy!
Musk Tonkin is a modern chypré, floral animalistic, musky luxurious fringed item. I'm impressed by longevity; it stay for more than a day just as in Serge Lutens. And sillage is convincing but not so great. It's better this way, some perfumes should not be overpowering.
Classic musk, modern floral.

Carpe Odor!
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