Sunday, October 11, 2015

Exquisite American heritage; Good Fir 11 by Krigler

Good Fir 11 by Krigler

Cloud Forest by Kendall Wishnick Adams
For many perfumistas the name Krigler is as infamous as name of a famous chef for a blacksmith! That was all surprise when I first have been suggested for the house's perfumes and given few samples from the line. It was beyond what I expected from what I had never heard of but checking for some other perfumes' samples online I found the prices incomparably higher than average price for a sample. So as perfumes. I surfed the site and finally checked the history! An atelier with almost more than a century of honorable experience in making elite perfumes for royal portraits and stars of golden age of Hollywood? No way! I then realized the samples I own are in facts gems not because of their price, but because of the history they bear.

The first glitters in history of Krigler goes back to 1879 when Albert Krigler - ancestor and founder of Krigler family business - composes his first famous perfume Pleasure Gardenia (today a part of Krigler portfolio as Pleasure Gardenia 79) in Moscow for his future wife. Krigler made several perfumes for first class European and American customers. It gains its fame among celebrities and privileged people during 1920's. In 1931 the house opens a boutique in The Plaza Hotel in New York. During unfortunate years of war Krigler's connection with his customers from Germany, France, and Scandinavia cuts off  and he remained intact with his American customers. However, this lasts till 1955 when Albert Krigler passed away and the company slept for years.

In 2008 after years of silence and years of custom perfume making during 60's and 70's, the house of Krigler reopens its boutique in The Plaza Hotel once again. Since then Krigler has faithfully kept legacy of making perfumes from exquisite materials gathers from all around the world to create the finest quality of smells.

For me Good Fir is smell of wandering in post-rain conifer forest in mellow early spring sunny day when rays of sunlight penetrate through tied pine branches, for which sun rays are like shiny yellow gold swords. A cold wet smell of dawn's rain evokes the green mystical philosophical smell of pine needles and barks. A smell verging on incense, swamp, and vernacular north American apothecary. Good Fir is dark, very gray and green, old school... and yet with all these so charming.

Good Fir was originally created in 1911 in Colorado. This perfume is Mr. Krigler's interpretation of crossing America at a time when it took days to go from New York to San Francisco. The notes of pines, mint, and vetiver were used to define the cold days surrounded by nature in Colorado. It was also the fragrance Mr. Krigler imagined for his relatives whom emigrated to California during the 1850's for the California gold rush.

You smell a very well-balanced authenticity in the beginning; very pine-oriented and very smoky/vinegary incense. That famous vibe of apothecary repeated in many American indie and natural perfumery creations. I'm not an American and haven't lived there but I'm apparently getting that patriotism in Good Fir. Believe me there's something in common in every single American indie perfume house. This perfume is produced in 1911 and such old school smell of one century ago is a part of expectations.

More than everything, Good Fir illustrates Midwest American westerns, specially those about gold finders and bank robbers. Jesse James (Brad Pitt) and Charley Ford (Sam Rockwell) in The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford, 2007.

There is something in contrary to many similar examples from naturals and indies: luxury. Although hints of vinegar smell appear after a while as it does in Slumberhouse Norne; for instance; there is no scary witchy type of aura in Good Fir. Vice versa; it delivers kind of class, kind of prestige. More than looking like another dark pharmaceutical 19th century Jesse James type of fragrance, it's sort of old class uptown weekend sport leisure. In fact Good Fir could be a missing ancestor of all those piney sportive fragrances of 70's and 80's. Imagine thick coats, tweeds, knickers pants, and leathers.

Sport like this! Michigan Wolverines football team, 1910

After the curtains of pine needles fell down one by one till incense find room to expose out, the fragrance goes on with bitter fatty aura that at one side smells like vinegar or something like that, and at the other, an earthy hint of cosmetics smell keeps it luxe. This is the very same vinegary smell as I gave Norne for reference. This probably comes from fir incense that has strange semi-smoky winery acidic smell hidden in conifer-base. What happens aftermath is rather peculiar. I'm not sure what I'm smelling is safeguarded from the original formula or it's a part of new editions; cause apparently no one wanna say that this hasn't change even an epsilon since 1911. Anyway, what I'm getting is a punchy smell of crude oil or something like used up burnt engine oil smell in the background of pharmaceutical fir.

In overall, Good Fir is an old class, half sporty half stylish fragrance for not formal occasions, nor for day, an autumn/winter fragrance, outdoorsy (even so good for a mountain resort vacation), and not daily life in metropole fragrance. It is introduced masculine and in fact has certain hair-chested masculinity but while in heart and dry down, it is wearable for both women and men.

Good Fir has strong long-term performance. I have it on my skin for about 12 hours. Massive sillage in the first hour and then it gradually sits near skin.

Carpe Odor!

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