Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Fidelis by Histoires de Parfums

Fidelis by Histoires de Parfums

Histoires de Parfums began fifteen years ago in 2000 with the first member of the library perfumes - 1740 Marquis de Sade - and followed the trend with subsequent perfumes for exceptional individuals. In 2011 a conceptual trio (white gold) has been released under Éditions Rare collections, which continued by another trio (yellow gold) in 2012. The house has announced for their latest creation and a member of the third collection; pink gold: FidelisThe notes introduced by the house are: cardamom oil, Guatemalan coffee, saffron, cumin oil, rose absolute, raspberry, patchouli, amber, Laotian oud.
"Gold is wedded to copper, the metal dedicated to Venus, the goddess of love and seduction....A lingering kiss in the hollow of the wrist from coffee, saffron and spicy amber. Thus love, born in the heart of a rose entwined with patchouli, surrenders to the delights of intoxicating oud."
A week ago I received a sample of Fidelis and immediately gave it a quick try, and by a very subjective impression I found it spicy woody intense perfume. But within next and next tests, I found more and more facets till I finally discover that this is not a simple perfume, it's a 3D polygon.

Photo by Richard Mosse

Although they are completely irrelevant in composition, for some aspects I link Fidelis to Amouage Opus IX and it is for sharp angular opening.
The opening of Fidelis is sparkling, soil-like, semi-floral - as in violet-oriented fragrances - and kind of vegetal yet so pungent. This is a beginning of a perfect composition on oudwood and appetizing spicy floral patch. As expected from the notes, saffron and cardamom are so bold. Julien Rasquinet (the nose behind this perfume who has my admiration from his masterpiece; Russian Tea) masterly employs coffee to give the spicy theme a crisp and dry pseudo-woody/smoky dimension, however, this characteristic intensifies by cumin, for which the whole composition highly incline to some of Serge Lutens', specially Serge Noir and those orchestrated by cloves and cumin. Cumin, cardamom and saffron are entwined together and formed a spicy integrity with gigantic effect on wet medicinal aged Laotian oud.

This is one very interesting composition. I can't say I love it like it or hate it, but it amuses me. It challenges me to discover it, extract its essence and find the gold from a mess. It's a geometrical game for my architectural abilities.
The core of the fragrance is so spicy and floral, stinks a little, and scratches your nose as smelling fresh ground pepper. What makes me take my hat off for Rasquinet's intelligence, is his smart use of four elements of an ordinary so-called oriental perfume on which many brands make silly things: rose, oud, saffron, and patchouli. He elaborately identifies it in a different way and shows the abilities of oudwood, and not been affected by marketing fever.

Fidelis has very robust longevity and punchy projection. Once sprayed on my wrist and it occupied whole the room. This of course can hardly be feminine but let me assure you that this is not a mere masculine one. It's heavy, rustic, so special and so spicy. If you love Amouage Opus IX, then you love Fidelis too.

Carpe Odor!

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