Saturday, October 24, 2015

Half chemistry and half music; ROOM 1015

ROOM 1015



Being a musician, Dr. Mike (Michael Partouche) also holds a PhD in pharmacy but what draws him into perfume world was always his knowledge in chemistry and interest in fragrance and cosmetic world that shone, and they came together in his indie-rebel house of perfume; ROOM 1015; with his passion in music (he has also his band Rodeo Massacre).
I really wanted then to mix my knowledge of chemistry, my passion for cosmetics, and my musician skills which are quite opposite, and I thought that fragrance was the perfect mix.
As he continues about his brand and etymology of ROOM 1015 he adds that this was the room in Hyatt hotel in Los Angeles during 70's, that was the most trashed room in the story of Rock n' Roll, and many bands like The Who, the Rolling Stones and so others used to party in the room after the scene.


Three fragrances, highly fashionable, revolutionary, postmodern and electronic, all are delivered in collaboration with Flair lab in Paris and by efforts of Amélie Bourgeois and Anne Sophie Behaghel (the famous duet behind many of Mendittorosa perfumes) in 2015.


Electric Wood


Ambroxan, cedar, oak, resins, iris, nutmeg

Spray it on your wrist and it immediately makes a déja-vu. Electric Wood is probably the most searched fragrance, primarily, for its intriguing title, and for the smell itself. I seriously can't tell this is good or bad but this is outrageous. totally modern composition that goes to illustrate the smell of new guitar in its case that refers to Dr. Mike's first experience of it. However, I don't feel myself on the scene but it brings the Adventure Time cartoons to mind! Kind of plastic accented, 3D virtual, pseudo-woody fragrance with carrot smell (Persefume has nailed this carrot smell perfectly). Carrot and maybe something seriously earthy. The nearest guess is iris as listed but it can't be only iris. It's so juicy, fresh purple, earthy and wet just as in Byredo 1996.

Electric Wood opens with crispy woody cedar pronounced by strange semi-citric air, and powdered by ambroxan, carbonated, postmodern and earthy. then shades of oak give it real appearance to look like wood but it still is synthetic and that does not mean it is bad cause the aim of the house is to deliver so.
I personally can't rate Electric Wood cause I found it to be a very personal fragrance and everyone has to discover it on skin, not mine though. It has moderate longevity and moderate sillage, but sharp smell that in first molecules sits on memorial units of olfactory part of brain!



Artamental


Bergamot, lemon, citrus and watery notes, cardamom, black pepper, resins, saffron and castoreum

Artamental is a familiar smell in the opening. Montale perfumes, they have a range of such juicy saffron oud-like or leathery compositions that replicate rosy vibe. Bearing 
the concept of tattooed skin, Artamental immediately rings a bell: smell of ink. But this ink is not pure and acrid black. It is sweetened, watered and dirty. 
The perfume opens with pseudo-rose air of saffron, pepper and citruses that collaborate with aquatic accords. This opening is subjective and it rapidly ages down, dense and dark. A battle of saffron/cardamom and watery notes begins. Dampness at one side calls animalic nuances, saffron/cardamom at the other, intensify it. The composition gets its overall form and the perfume reaches its persona. Sweet, slight dark, dirty animalic, slight gourmand spicy and outrageous.
Artamental is absolutely out of my style but let me say if you love Montale perfumes you definitely go for this one too.
Longevity of Artamental is not that impressive; almost 2 hours and it fades down in bold Iso E Super and castoreum that smells like newly shaved pencil and is totally in contrary to the opening. So as power, the projection is also a mess.


Blomma Cult


Lilac, bergamot, cashmeran wood, iris, patchouli, cinnamon, vanilla, white musk

Too much vanilla baptized with citrus and lilac but still vanilla in high dose. Blomma Cult is a strange composition. Much electric and postmodern to be considered a perfume. I swear I even smell shades of insect-killer spray and spoiled perfume in it. I couldn't imagine a transformation of violet flowers (iris and lilac) and cashmerean wood can be this outlandish. This is the core of the fragrance after about half an hour what happens between opening and core is just intolerable for me.

I do believe the chief character of ROOM 1015 perfumes is minimalism which occupies Electric Wood and Artamental but Blomma Cult is even less than minimalism and is like a formula left in the middle of process.
Longevity and projection factors are both mediocre but the texture of smell is pungent and keeps it bold.

Carpe Odor!


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