Friday, October 16, 2015

Kamasurabhi by Lorenzo Villoresi; the scent of pleasure

Kamasurabhi by Lorenzo Villoresi

The last spring I was amused with Teint de Neige from the house and trying to connect to the perfume that maestro perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi has released his latest creation Kamasurabhi which has an interesting name. I don't know if the term is still in use in modern Indian languages but this doesn't look so ancient! Villoresi's take on oriental themes is a bit different to these showy oriental and oud releases you see nowadays. He has his own story and style and this style is original and ancient, and intriguing as in Alamut.

Notes: exotic flowers, jasmine sambac, rose, orange blossoms, tuberose, ylang-ylang, narcissus, sandalwood, musk, amber, leather, patchouli.

Kamasurabhi (translated from Sanskrit: perfume of pleasure) is a gaudy floral amber fragrance and homage to colorful flowers of India. It is flamboyant as oriental fragrances are famous for, but it has an introvert manner that recalls for mystery and complexity. 

The fragrance has resonant touch of familiar but hard to decode smell. One particular smell that I found myself this last months to be a fond of, is labdanum, that is the core of Kamasurabhi. By the name and the definition, before I try the perfume, I thought this role must be played by the tuberose to stress carnality and "joy". But although the blend suggests a very potent seducing aura, it has not the efficient sexuality as in tuberose-oriented creations. However, labdanum has its own erotic dimensions.

The fragrance starts with giant floral patch enveloped in dusty and powdery smell of indolic jasmine and dry rose and some sort of tickling-to-figure-out type of floral composition that I feel I know but can't remember! This beginning instantly remarks for noble sandalwood/ylang-ylang creations of 80's and 90's but there's a smell of rug or something like this that separates the perfume and says "no I'm unique".

In spite of its huge-pronounced start up, the fragrance has humble and friendly appearance that invites you, to a party, to a new world and this world is India itself with all its exotic trees, animals, colorful flowers, smells and people in lavish-colored dresses.
The core of the fragrance is still floral and dry. I guess Villoresi has again approached a new blend of materials to identify the perfume and named it exotic flowers. And I can now clearly smell hibicus among the package of flowers, as clear as I get coumarin ambery notes, ylang-ylang, milky sandalwood, muddy earthy labdanum, and lustful patchouli, as mush as I get that smell of carpet which is driving me crazy and I can't tell it apart.

Kamasurabhi has great longevity on my skin, it stays for about 8 hours each time I try. Corresponding to such favorable longevity it has average sillage which is not bad. I'm thinking in case of greater projection the smell could be irritating.
One thing I don't understand is the mass of dislikes on this perfume on Fragrantica! People in that forum are getting strange! Is this perfume that bad and I don't see? Kamasurabhi is a simple and modest composition but a nice ambery floral blend you can reckon on to fit a particular style.

Carpe Odor!

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