Wednesday, October 7, 2015

No title for this masterpiece; Kiki Eau de Parfum & KikiVoile d'Extrait by Vero Profumo

Kiki Eau de Parfum & KikiVoile d'Extrait
Vero Profumo

Picture ⓒ by Diego Comi, campomarzio70
Photo provided by Vero Kern

I always considered myself a fan of lavender who has not even a lavender in collection cause this note is so giant and simply too much for a thin guy like me. For that reason, my Caron Pour un Homme, which I used to own, was just an unfit over-personality on me; happily it was only a small size.
Discovering lavender's giant aspect and knowing that it's a note for smelling and not for wearing on, was a true fact which I always knew but ignored to fight against temptation and have it on. My second revolutionary inner discovery was when I first met Histoires de Parfums 1969 (which I bought immediately after my first try) and Slumberhouse Ore (a blind buy) and I realized I'm a nut for gourmand and happy things. This of course intensified after testing Neela Vermeire Trayee which I voluntarily register in a mental hospital!
Now temptations and obsessions allied to defeat me? Is Kiki a trap to show me how weak I am against my desires?! By this intro you now probably guess how Kiki is! It's a clash of lavender and fruity notes, to talk shortly, and type of delicious characterful perfume which while wearing you fall in love with yourself.

pictures © vero profumo
Ms. Vero Kern in her atelier

I said "characterful" and this comes from Vero Kern's strong talent allied with her olfactorial memory that through years have shaped and matured until finally poured in flacons of Vero Profumo.

Vero Kern; a pharmaceutical assistant who have got involved into professional perfumery; was born in 1940 in Winterthur, Switzerland. In 1994, a two-year training course as an aromatherapist gave her a firm foundation for professional involvement with essential oils and absolutes. Soon Vero Kern was creating personal blends for her own clientele. Vero Kern's olfactory preferences lie with the classical perfumes: Guerlain, Chanel or Caron are, for her, the highlights of classic glamour, an art which is slowly disappearing.
Vero Profumo (originally registered as .vero.profumo.) is a chance for Vero Kern to translate this original idea of ​​perfume as an all-embracing concept into the present; a prestigious and a small brand with great influence.
A perfect fragrance donated to Paris must be so tempting, right? And how nice lavender fits Paris! the website describes the inspiration behind the creation:
"An Homage to the beautiful city of Paris. An almost burlesque side of the proud Madame Lavande de France. Frivolous, powdery notes of caramel and musk weave in and out all around Madame, while exotic fruits join in. Pure and wild at the same time, like a visit to the Bibliothèque nationale followed by dinner and a show at the «Crazy Horse» cabaret."
Kiki de Montparnasse (photo by Man Ray), the inspiration muse behind the perfume.
But the biggest enigma is the cute title of the fragrance that has my curiosity: Kiki, a yummy word to pronounce! When I asked Ms. Kern for etymology of Kiki she describes the story behind and it is as fascinating as the perfume itself:
"One of the inspiration behind Kiki is Jicky, the famous lavender scent of Guerlain created 1889 by Aimé Guerlain and still on the shelves! I decided to create an homage to Paris/France where I learned how to create perfumes and there is nothing more french than a Guerlain perfume like Jicky. Then Kiki stays also for Kiki de Montparnasse, an artist and independent women in the roaring twenties of the last century, She was the muse of Man Ray and other artists of this area."

Kiki Eau de Parfum

Kiki blooms with soapy fruity tinge infused in lavender. The fruity side exposes rigid sparkling boozy effect and then, lavender; creamy and lazy; galumphs in the composition. There is a soft and camphorous hint of geranium leaf that pets quince and brings kind of luxurious comfort. Passion fruit is the queen of the opening. I love the way this fruit shows up a metallic acrid yet extremely mouthwatering freshness, and how intimately it fits to lavender's arrogance. It's a clash of two bold sides: Caribbean culture and European aromatic.

The fruity side gradually sets aged when the lavender grows up in caramel. Caramel is a nice choice to make happiness out of lavender and keep the jovial atmosphere alive. This burnt sugary note; which I hate the taste and am fond of its smell; has strong capability to duplicate many sweet vibes. And how smartly it drenches into lavender. It shows how great and deliberately sweet accords can play up lavender. A classical example of such structures is Caron Pour un Homme in which golden labdanum amber amplifies lavender.
Kiki's base is a bit serious yet it has bold shades of passion fruit's happiness from the opening, plus dusty woody air. Kiki is a fun perfume, full of passion and enthusiasm to life, jovial, sexy and capricious but firm in persona. It's an outdoor sunny spring fragrance that drives you crazy if you're a fan of fruity sweet lavender.
Enormous longevity; over 10 hours on my wrist; and giant sillage. Experimentally, it leaves meters of trail behind and front. A five star masterpiece.

Kiki Voile d'Extrait

pictures © vero profumo

Kiki Voile d'Extrait (let's call it Kiki V) is in fact the stronger face of Kiki and is the elder sister. Here in Kiki V we have almost the same list of notes but not the same arrangement. This is way different, even the fruity accent is different.
Kiki V unfolds with metallic, bony lavender, not mingled, but utterly dominated over heady fruity surface and thwart them to empower. Unlike in Kiki EDP which presents lavender embracing fruity notes, there's a schism between lavender and fruity party in Kiki V that looks like the two parties, although performing parallel, are challenging to gain privilege. Yet, the overall render is a seamless cluster of notes, masterly mortared.

After a while when the edgy lavender calms and fruity notes set down, it's time for caramel and musk to show up and what a trio! Beside caramel there's a fluffy vanilla amber accent, that softens the composition yet brings kind of rug smell or carpet smell to the blend. Kiki EDP is happy and joyous, and Kiki V is luxurious and formal sister, dusty, classical, glamorous and olfactory parallel of French intellectual café culture. This composition goes through the base and the base is literally out of this world. Although I die for opening of Kiki EDP, I do so for base of Kiki V.
Kiki V has great longevity yet not as great as Kiki EDP. Comparatively, the sillage is as massive as Kiki EDP!
Why do I compare these two perfumes while they are just two different takes on lavender and caramel?! Each Kiki has specific personality, power and effect. Just try them if you're really in lavender, and you'll get crazy for them. Kiki is ineffably complex, rich, lush, stylish and a postmodern composition with direct inclination to Paris' heydays. One in a million.

Carpe Odor!

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