Thursday, October 29, 2015

Patrician leather; Homme XJ 17/17 by Xerjoff

Homme XJ 17/17 by Xerjoff

I wish I had great vocal chords to sing opera in tenor with glory of this perfume! This is not what happens as usual in perfumery even in artistic class of niche perfumery.
I got a sample from a friend and gave it a go. My first impression when I tried Homme was arranging a new shopping list and put it immediately on top, however, I shall think twice for the astronomical price of 520€ stone label 100ml flacon (or 15ml attar oil Murano glass for 550€ and quartz flacons)! This is Xerjoff's most exclusive and extravagant perfume collection.
Just as straight as its name, the scent also shouts for dashing masculinity but not as in aggressive fougère "Mr. way too much cologne wearer" type of testosterone manly perfumes of 70's and 80's. It's an exceptional gem that appears on shelves once a century; a genteel leather with intrigant inner-vision.

Murano flacons, aren't they just desirable?

One fact before I go on is about the name of the brand and I should indicate many people still pronounce this brand's name incorrectly. It's pronounced Serjof not Zerjāf or Zeryāf and it's named after Sergio Momo himself. Xerjoff is an eminent umbrella company working in the industry since 2003 and during this not so long-term career the house achieved remarkable successes and presented truly high-end maximalist fragrances racked in several collections. Homme is a member of lavish collection of XJ 17/17.

I see the lights and darkness contrasts of Homme in Caravaggio's art
Caravaggio, The Taking of Christ, 1602

Homme initiates so shiny and vibrant with citrus and un-twisty leathery notes that is, in the first steps, under clove's cloak. A spicy and fresh zesty accent, cooperates lavender and citrus. Gradually clues of powdery leather fades in and the composition suddenly releases out the yummy air and segues into leather and the fragrance becomes giant and solid. With a quaint smell of roller pen ink, the leather accord gets rather darker than as expected. The inky smell which source is unknown for me adds Persian indigo atmosphere to dark gray leather and makes royal out of its sculptural facet.

I said rollerball ink but I found this picture fancier. There's no smell of artist ink in Homme

This is the most cruel Cesar-size leather perfume ever made. I emphasize that Homme is not a stronger or most brutal leather, it's a birch tar leather composition and by far the most elaborate one.
Beside everything, there's a familiar smell of petroleum in Homme and those lured by famous petroleum leather smell of Dior Fahrenheit (the earlier versions, the fragrance went under a bad reformulation genocide and lost its charisma aftermath) would immediately mark it. Kain has started his brilliant review with the same idea: "Did you miss the strong, smoky and kind of petroleum-like smell of original formulation of Dior Fahrenheit?!" He also indicates to Knize Ten as an olfactory parallel which I have not tested yet and as a leather worm it's a shame! This heavy runner petroleum powdery accord gives me equanimity that someone is faithful to originality of leathery compositions.
Homme's heart is dark, prominent masculine, immensely powdery and softly soapy. I'm not a fan of soapy fragrances at all, but this type is so genuine. It's like fine handmade soap in a granite bathtub, very special and very luxurious. Luxurious, I said. My vocabulary is not that advanced to emphasize the correct term but luxurious would fit the idea.

It is also compared to some other first class leather compositions like Puredistance M and Cuir Ottoman. Puredistance M is a perfume with leather inside and Homme is leather itself. Cuir Ottoman has a very close powdery leather but, though I do love Cuir Ottoman, comparing to Homme is a silly joke!

The dry down gets out of rigid leathery accord and meets some amber accords and vetiver that make it round and dusty. Yet, the result doesn't go so far from the imperial powdery leather and the fragrance is still there like Stonehenge!

Homme is literally an extraordinary composition, not for special people but for special customers! I may not be able to purchase a bottle someday unless plan a bankrobbery in Switzerland, but believe me this perfume deserves a Cannes festival award. It's a homogeneous, rich, wealthy composition for almost cold weather and formal occasions. Smells like leather seats of a Maserati - if this delivers the idea of smell and vibe. 
Homme presents so massive and bold but very calculated and not overpowering. Strong longevity, over 8 hours of solid performance on my skin, plus huge projection with mellow trail of smell behind wearer.
I don't know who's the nose behind this jewel, and I don't ask the house since they don't reveal such information, but bravo Sergio Momo and bravo to the nose whoever s/he is.

Carpe Odor!

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