Sunday, October 18, 2015

Postmodern chypré ethos; Antonia by Puredistance

Antonia by Puredistance

Julius Kronberg, Nymph and Fauns, 1875

There are perfumes you may love to smell, love to inhale and do not exhale it yet you never dare to wear, or let's say, you don't mind to own cause there's something baffling in the composition that doesn't fit your personality and this of course doesn't decrease any from the value of the fragrance; Antonia is such a perfume for me. In overall, a green creamy floral and a pseudo-chypré composition which is so personal. Antonia is the house's second fragrance and the architect behind this 2010 fragrance is Annie Buzantian (the same nose responsible for the first of the house; Puredistance I) and it is named after the name of mother of the founder of the house; Jan Ewoud Vos.

In just few years of activity, Puredistance has established a strong column in the industry with remarkable powerhouses delivered by most prestigious noses, and this is the main concern and concept of the house to pull all their effort to deliver true perfumes; as they declare. Puredistance's perfumes are both classic and modern, a sort of artistic postmodern take on classic and original compositions by referring the noble compositions of the past. The key  in creation of Antonia is the image of a strong, positive, and gentle woman and a harmonious composition with jasmine, rose essence, ylang-ylang, orris, ivy, galbanum, vanilla, and vetiver delivers the idea of the perfume.

Antonia initiates with green sparkling and fat sweet tone resembling shampoo and butane gas, both, infused in indolic jasmine and freshly cropped ylang-ylang. This results is a special way with flowers. Ylang-ylang is a strange note, it's like a mature woman, so common and mass-pleaser as well as it makes compositions private, type of hippy aura it gives, yet it marks for decent luxury fragrances of 70's and 80's. This paradoxical manner brings valuable complexity. I also feel smell of marigold and probably geranium, however, they are not listed. This green floral opening is supported by galbanum to emerge slight smoky resinous air up.

Olle Hjortzberg, Meadow flowers in midsummer, 1948

The interesting part is orris that stays deep without a bright hint and this give more opportunity to floral patch of the fragrance. Antonia has a specific floral facet.
For the very first beginning Antonia is akin to all paramount chyprés and I believe it could be a chypré fragrance with postmodern inclinations, as mush as it firmly holds its classical reputation with two hands and that's why it illuminates a retro fancy sexy grown woman in her mid-30 like as Monica Bellucci in Malenai; a femme fatale.
Antonia's heart is lush and enticing and in contrary to its opening, it is not fizzy or vibrant. Once settled, it trims the fat vibe away and crawls in dry, powdery, enchanting essential sweet and earthiness. It also gets rid of the pseudo-chypré classic theme it exhibited in the beginning. Honestly, I don't like the beginning cause it's so personal like a bespoke fragrance and it smells like a perfume on significant body smell of someone. But the core of the fragrance, as it dries out, is more common, astonishing and mesmerizing. Fluffy divine jasmine and rose, cured with rounded vanilla and crispy verdant side of ivy; reveals brightly; and resinous galbanum. A perfect touch of Haitian vetiver (probably, it smells dusty and floral) in the dry down, gives smell of dust and soil and enriches the resinous side. And you should try it to see how luxuriously it presents the core. For green side of Antonia which is prepared by the ivy, I feel a resemblance to Puredistance I.

Tenaciously, Antonia is a floral green fragrance with very potent creamy camphorous side that keeps on classic theme and evokes sentimentality. It's very strong, very delightful and well-composed. One thing that I love about Antonia is its minimalistic arrangement of notes. Although it's a classic concept and supposed to hire lots of notes, the nose delivers the message with least possible notes to shows up straight and frank kindness and originality like a mother's heart.

Antonia has considerably strong longevity, the fragrance is higher than %25 perfume extrait and for that you seriously need to careful about application. The sillage is moderate and not as expected from classics. A 100ml flacon costs $485 and 60ml is $270, while the house offers 17.5ml official purse spray for $160.

Carpe Odor!

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