Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Robust delicacy; Chypré Palatin by Parfums MDCI

Chypré Palatin by Parfums MDCI


Recently, through my journey in classic which I have abandoned unaccomplished a couple of years ago, I faced many notable creations for which I should remove hat. No need to an intro, Chypré Palatin is a colossal and dense composition with a large row of materials employed to result in a harmonized integrity one may hardly decypher, and I would call it an "everything" in chypré dressing orchestrated by a four-hand creator. Chypré Palatin is one of the hardest perfumes to describe specially in the matter of emotions, and I first fell alexithymic by its complexity. Bertrand Duchaufour is famous for two identical signatures: his comprehensive structures, and yummy themes he pastes in his creations. And Chypré Palatin is indeed one of the most complex perfumes I have ever seen. It's like a thick piece of hardened steel and at the same time weightless like ball of cotton, like a long literal sentence underlined in just one word.


"Classic" is the common term referred to all perfumes of this house. The house's head, Claude Marchal, dreamed his concept in mid 90's when; as he declared; "the market was flooded with ugly mass-market products, in the same bland bottles and someone had to do something about it." Instead of finding financial sponsors to materialize his idea, he established his own brand Parfums MDCI (Marchal Design and Créations Indépendantes). Establishing such prestigious perfume house and collaborating with world's elite noses such as Pierre Bourdon, Bertrand Duchaufour and others, is an easy plan to dream but not an easy one to organize. And as difficult as managing such business, is releasing first class compositions and of course hand made flacons and sculpture caps on which Mr. Marchal works personally to guarantee the result is exactly what he wants.


Chypré Palatin is mainly discussed for its so-called resemblance to Roja Dove Diaghilev. Well chypres are siblings after all for their basic compositions and rigid manner of presentation of oakmoss, peach or whatsoever they have in common. But let me assure you if Diaghilev is neoclassicism's rigid symmetric order, then Chypré Palatin is romanticism's emotional charisma. It's full of passion, details, happiness and flexibility, while Diaghilev is rigid, stony, and serious. It is for their rigidity that usually chyprés are matter of hate or love but if you're not a fond of chypres even, you really don't refuse Chypré Palatin.

Giambattista Tiepolo, The Glorification of the Barbaro Family, 1750

How can I describe Chypré Palatin without referring it to pure art? This liquid treasure is divine figures in Tiepolo's ceilings, is yellow in Matisse's canvases, is Michelangelo's Mosses, Paganini's violin, and Dostoevsky's Crime and Punishment. It is art in liquid form and it sends a message, a legacy and pure beauty. It's a perfume made by Swiss watchsmakers' sensitivity.
Chypré Palatin starts out with fruity woodsy blend with bold hints of chypré as necessary to identify the main spirit of the fragrance. From just beginning what you concern about such perplexing enigma and charisma is notes. The house partially mentions the notes this way:
Hyacinth, tangerine, cistus, galbanum, thyme, lavender, rose, jasmine, iris , prune, gardenia, benzoin, styrax, castoreum, leather, tolu balsam, vanilla absolute, oak foam.
Fragrantica; just to give an external reference; suggests:
lavender, labdanum, hyacinth, galbanum, sage, clementine, aldehydes, iris, jasmine, gardenia, rose, plum, styrax, benzoin, tolu balsam, vanilla, castoreum, leather, costus, oakmoss, and immortelle.
Regardless to who's right and who's not, the fragrance itself tells everything and nothing! A floral, sweet peachy floral theme in the opening invites you to a late 18th century palace with luxurious furniture. At one side it is so European and tied with Baroque pageantry, at the the other side it recalls for luxurious 16th century Middle Eastern pomp and solemnity of textile art; specially Safavid brocades ornamenting heavy cloaks weaving on silk shirts.


The scent is followed by soar smoky vibes of aldehyde with its stony marble-like smell. It's rigid and firm like doomed angel encrusted in hardest stones. But Duchaufour knows how to weave flexibility inside out a tight skeleton, it's his skill. Hyacinth beside powdery iris and dramatically smoldering galbanum dance around the aldehydic throne like long seaweeds waving on surface of ocean; like there is no future nor yesterday.
Unlike somber Mitsouko and mature old-school Diaghilev which present oakmoss in highest level, Chypré Palatin accentuates on its floral resinous performance and brings hyacinth, labdanum and galbanum up. And unlike those virtuous landmarks with their grown ripe peach, Duchaufour employs plum prune to deliver the capricious and young mood he dedicated for. This; of course beside leather for its dandiness,  rose for its romance, mandarin for its youth; makes it the most young, futuristic, modern/retro, and happy chypré ever seen.

Mahmoud Farshchian, Birds and Hyacinths
Once settled, Chypré Palatin donates luxurious beauty a perfume can deliver. A spectacular olfactorial sorcery of premium galbanum plus fat powdery tolu balsam mingled with castoreum; the darkest of animalic realm; and the result is still soft and refined and it's all provided by hyacinths. It is so fascinating to see animalic notes sweetened by resinous and floral accords. It's like a diamond! A tender vanilla/labdanum-oriented amber accord supports the composition at the end. Talking about notes one by one is one applicable by Duchaufours or a dog's nose cause this perfume is not going to reveal the inside and it plays with you all the time.

Chypré Palatin is a soft and elegant perfume, a discrete self-confidential formal and high-end fragrance for both genders, for fresh season (not cold nor summer). If you care for your style, care for classics, and you like to get compliments this is yours. You definitely attracts attention however, Chypré Palatin has not massive punchy sillage. It plays around you like a mist. But for this mellow projection, it has great long lasting continuity.

You can order with $250 for 75ml and $375 for the same size with porcelain bust cap with frown portrait of Emperor Caracalla!

Carpe Odor!

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