Monday, November 16, 2015

A tattered baggage full of gold; Trayee by Neela Vermeire Créations

Trayee by Neela Vermeire Créations


If Around the World in 80 Days would have a smell, that could be Trayee. My first impression was lost for words. I has been confronting an ineffably complex masterpiece that pumps adrenaline in my veins and makes my heart beep fast. I could hear blaze of a happy carnival from distance. A happy ritual zesty smell.
Trayee is a different case fully about passion and culture. I severely love the fragrances with cultural concept behind creation. Of course I don't deny a perfume with strong and elaborate skeleton. Trayee is both of them; a homage to intangible heritages of India, and a premium composition with genuine natural materials.

I'm not sure if Holi has any relation to the concept of Trayee but if you look for an illustrated description this full HD color ceremony is the very happiness Trayee donates.

If I say it's all about incense, sandalwood, oudwood and black currant I didn't lie but I totally spoil Bertrand Duchaufour's endeavors to achieve his one of the most extravagant gems, cause you can't even guess by the pyramid how the reality is. Every single trio or quadrant of notes I make I disturb your imagination, therefore, Trayee is a perfume which must have talk about precisely and no one would obtain the passion unless testing the perfume. Today, at the time I'm writing this review, weather is fresh cold, clean and rainy and you don't know how inexplicably gorgeous the fragrance is performing with sonata or rain. Few days ago I concerned "how to wear Trayee, anyway? It's a great perfume but hard to fit a weather" and today I got my answer; the perfume is singing on me! I might commit suicide today from extreme happiness, this is the end of world!


Back to the story. I wondered about the title and I confess I don't know anything about India but mango is a delicious fruit! I stubbornly reject learning from here and there; I prefer to learn by my own and this is an academic obsession! But Trayee tickles me to learn and it deserves to search for the concepts behind the perfume. The house webpage describes the concept this way:

"The Vedic tradition suggests that wisdom is eternal. It exists within the eternal fabric of consciousness itself and is uncreated. It is the essence of India, the beginning of the journey. It is a eulogy, a hymn to the idea of India, an act of deepest reverence for the traditions of the mother country. 
The divine origin of the first three Vedas - Rig, Yajur and Sama - suggested the name of the perfume: Trayee (pronounced "try-ee" meaning "the traid"). Trayee is a complex fragrance that represents the boundless spiritual landscape of the great Vedic period, which started many centuries ago. 
Its intricate rituals and temple ceremonies, ayurveda, the universe of yoga and the holistic quest for knowledge. The perfume itself has a high percentage of natural ingredients used in many of the Vedic ceremonies."
Beside Bombay Bling! and Mohur, Trayee is the other of the trio by Indo-French independent niche perfumery house of Neela Vermeire Créations. The house is famous for its wealth-consuming compositions and so as to creation, the output is also opulent and pricey. Ms.Vermeire has not dedicated a budget limit for this project so Mr. Duchaufour, free-handly, utilized every marvelous natural ingredient and captive he desired or found necessary to woo you as much as to send the cultural message. That makes this house one of the most prestigious niche houses in the highest level of the industry.


I did a little research about the concept of the perfume to see what is Vedic ceremony and culture and where the roots are tied to. Believe me as a fan of history and cultures I mixed up. The concept is a cultural definition highly ties to historical background and as you go deeper you go through abyss. But to give a short idea and not baffle your mind, Vedic refers to the creed of Northern Indian Indo-Aryans and is knows as one of the oldest religions, and ancestor of modern Hinduism. For more information you can read on Wikipedia English which describes thoroughly.

Trayee opens vegetal green mixed with creamy zesty sweetness. Blackcurrant (which I die for), ginger, basil, cinnamon, cardamon, elemi... what else could you need to bland a tempting smell and taste?! Trayee is not only a smell, it's also a taste and notes employed for this perfume are:
Blue ginger from Madagascar, elemi oil, cinnamon bark, ganja effects, blackcurrant absolute, basil, sambac jasmine absolute, Egyptian jasmine absolute, cardamom absolute, clove, saffron, sandalwood, Javanese vetiver, Haitian vetiver, incense, Mysore sandalwood oil, patchouli, myrhh, vanilla, cedar, amber accord, oudh Palao from Laos, and oak moss.

This exuberant smell of beginning, also reminds me of a delicious Persian festive pudding which is usually served in religious ceremonies, named Shole Zard.

The opening is so intricate, elaborate, and alluring. It's in a fact assault of yummy notes like a huge jelly monster attacking a city that cannot harm cause it's a jelly! Cardamon and cinnamon; old friends; plus blackcurrant make the intro for next level which is driven by woodsy accords. Sandalwood; it's Mysore! The world's most favorable sandal and while getting the floral milky smell of Mysore, I'm paralleling it to Serge Lutens' Santal de Mysore and see how dynamic this wood is. The two fragrances has almost least possible communications. Trayee borrows milkiest form of sandalwood, mingles with spicy theme and saffron (which softly plays gastronomic role in the composition) and it is when it recalls for incense and petrified woodsy tones.


A soft mild touch of oudwood joins the composition and collaborates with un-resinous incenses to augment the ritual smoky vibe and this oud draws a  smile on your lips.
From now on, Trayee settles in core and continues linearly with warm, lazy, happy, sweet, mellow and delightful smell of woodsy gourmand air which is much more serious than an oud/incense Arabian composition. This fragrance is seriously one of a kind.

The base of Trayee is another journey of passion when gradually sweet yellow light of spices and sandalwood succumbs down to bitter/sweet aspect of myrrh, green facet of oakmoss, and dusty mellow smell of vetiver and the sweetness turns to light dustiness. The rituals almost finished, people scatter, the streets are covered by lots of flowers and petals, smell of sweet incense and sandalwood still around and empower.

One intriguing facet of Trayee is that there's no significant smell of flower in the composition but it clearly reminds me of Indian flowers. Yes, for Trayee yellow is the very color.
Trayee is a very flamboyant, very extrovert and inviting perfume. A nice fragrance for which you should to be smart enough to set it with right outfit and right weather otherwise you spoil it! I mean it, this perfume is not so flexible to fit to every criteria you desire and this intensifies on men more than women; women can wear it much easier.

Counting its faceta once again, it's floral, woodsy, milky, spicy, and a little smoky. Trayee supports you with mind-blowingly enormous longevity and higher than average sillage and projection. The fragrance apparently stays a whole day on my skin and it's still so strong! I wonder by its power as much as its composition. It's Duchaufour after all, he makes treasure from every single element he touches! One word: Bravo!

Carpe Odor!

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