Thursday, November 19, 2015

Jus Interdit, Sans un Mot, and Sombres Dessins by Jovoy

Jus Interdit, Sans un Mot, and Sombres Dessins by Jovoy

Jovoy has engaged with perfumery with Les 7 Parfums Capitaux collection (discontinued) in 2007 and since then they worked non-stop in the trend with brilliant compositions delivered by prestigious noses. Recently the house has added three new 50ml items with provocative titles to its collection in spring 2015: Jus Interdit (Forbidden Juice), Sans un mot (Not a word), and Sombres Dessins (Dark Designs). Very brief I go through the three perfumes...

Jus Interdit

Jus Interdit is a standard perfume with every aspect of a wearable fragrance. For such aroma you expect a little convention and irregularity in the core...
Jus Interdit is a warm fragrance with very high potentials that are undiscovered. The opening is so good and convincing. It's warm, balmy, juicy and a little appetizing boozy. The fragrance settles in dusky dry and arid theme with bold benzoin and tamed animality. Unlike the opening, the core of the fragrance is so generic. It is inexplicably off topic cause it wants two opposite sides at once: oriental mysterious theme and western luxurious theme.
The fragrance is dusty and woody-ambery with straightforward cedar, patchouli, and animalic base. Jus Interdit has strong longevity and moderate projection.

Sans un Mot

Sans un Mot raises a flag: shampoo, handmade soap or such cleansing things and it's merely because of intense floral musky theme used. It is an exclusively modern feminine perfume with bold musky saline soapy base infused in soil-like violet. The violet patch is not an intense bitter dewy one with cucumber smell, it's filtered and softened to extract the floral air only. Sans un Mot dangles in the middle of something. It's floral, way fruity and fresh, musky, and peppery powdery, but it shows all these in a very excited and uneasy way, like someone waiting impatiently for something to happen.
The base of the fragrance releases a little of wet air and becomes more stable and trustable. Yet the punchy projection and sharp acrid metallic smell of musk keeps it rather uncalm. It has moderate longevity and good sillage.

Sombres Dessins

Swampy patchouli and sandalwood, yummy spicy booze, slight lactonic floral, and soft mystic smoky. This is what Sombre Dessins is about, but while the name suggests, it is not about darkness.
The first step is on plastic world's patchouli, zested by citrus, saffron, and rum. This is a subjective step however, and the fragrance goes with more woody side that smells springy and blossomy. This must be from osmanthus and sandalwood. The whole fragrance turns to milky, acrid, sour, fresh/warm, and radiant spicy. The sour theme intensifies by the growth of perfume and merges into woodsy milky theme that inclines to carrot juice. So what we got? Smell of body sweat in the dry down presented in floral ornamentation. Oh I hate this. Sorry but can't hide this.

Jovoy's latest releases are common in some characteristics: they look like a response to some alterations in high-end perfume markets that Jovoy was not ready for, and afraid to lag. So they approach the stream but with haste and for that the result is unrecognized. Moreover, seems (for the haste probably) the total effort of creation focuses on charming beginnings but the cores are nothing special. This looks like a fancy facade on a ruined building. The three perfumes are all so familiar smells but you might strain to name for an olfactory parallel, as I do, cause they are similar to forgettable perfumes with mediocre quality. I really don't find these ones deserving to be among Jovoy perfumes. They are great letdown.

Carpe Odor!

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