Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Pearls and jaguar: Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

George Bellows, The Circus, 1912

It smells like Dostoevsky!
Dzing! is literally high level; like his novels which are composition of very professional grammar and literal ability; the perfume is an exquisite harmony of simple elements forming an ultra-structure. And like a masterpiece of art, as a compose, a painting or a novel, while many perfumes are known by their producers' name, Olivia Giacobetti's creations signify her name as an signature with her blood. It's a matter of respect to nose's talent when her name comes before brand's name, and Dzing! is indeed such masterpiece. The fragrance is a 1999 child and is called Woody in Fragrantica while Ozmos racks it in Oriental Vanilla. Regardless to both, Dzing! is a complex combination of leathery notes and soft sweets with a touch of pale fruity saffron...



Dzing! unfurls with the very Giacobetti's breath. What is that? A familiar draught of something fresh, foggy, and dreamy merged into composition, that hides behind and makes you crazy yet you can't conjure it up and can't get rid of its intrigue. This happens in most of her creations, for example, Fou d'Absinthe, Hiris, Tea for Two, and Elixir.
The first wack of the fragrance is a  juxtaposition of strange musky hinge and very delightful sweetness/smokiness. This simple yet very integrated opening evokes a sense that Dzing! is a perfume made for perfumers not for ordinary costumers. This is a highly elaborate composition which is irrationally underrated by many Youtubers.

The house describes that the perfume is composed as a circus performance and is a magical evocation of a circus of dreams and imagination. The concept is so amusing. A collection of smells in a circus: horses, animals, felines, saw dust, hay, fire, sweaty muscles, candies and too loud noises. Let's do it other way, I close my eyes and try to empty my mind from the imagination to see whether if the scent illustrates these all...
Well I clearly smell leather harness on a male horse and probably the intense colors of the woman's make up. But the leathery/musky hue is not a vulgar one. It's seriously luxe like skin of a black jaguar. A hint of soft chalky tone enriches the leather and reduces skanky volume of animality.

Now, when the fragrance sets down, those sweet smells of saffron and toffee gradually subdue and the woody base appear. This perfume, to be accurate, is the smell of a circus itself rather than smell of performance. I mean an empty circus hall after show ends and crown scatter. It is yummy in the beginning, serious in the heart and fancy and delightful in the base, so could anyone tell this would not be a woman whom every man desire?!...

You know, I'm a bad fond of musk and I really want them all in my collection. But the fact that Dzing! doesn't like my skin breaks my heart. This fragrance is so gorgeous, modern and I'm so infatuated by. It's like a personal blend, a bespoke and a strong signature scent; a combination of class and originality. It is very comfortable, characteristic, very sexy, and very complete. But at the same time it is so daring and challenging for my rough masculine skin. This is the common aspect of musky and phenolic leathery fragrances. But it's not all; there's something more. I think this is a kind of perfume that plays mesmerizing and erotic on porcelain feminine skin but not that bold on me. This is the very problem I faced in Balmain Ambre Gris which plays like a row of pearls on my wife's skin but dances funky like a clown on me: cheap pseudo-floral. So pity that she's not in animalic fragrances, to motivate me to buy it for her and give my heart tranquility! But maybe a closer fragrance in the matter of smell to Dzing! could be Kiehl's Original Musk when it sits in base; the same musky floralized freshness and mistiness.

Although many believe Dzing! inclines to masculinity, I believe this perfume is made for feminine skin. Don't reckon on leather and musk, this is as soft as skin after bath! On my skin it has about 5 hours longevity but my wife smells leather to about 7 hours with medium sillage and projection.

Carpe Odor!

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