Monday, December 14, 2015

Victory smells leather: L'Aigle de la Victoire by Rancé 1795

L'Aigle de la Victoire by Rancé 1795


For no particular reason I had not even glanced at creations of this house, and before a friend; whose taste is totally contrary to mine; tells off about the actual perfume, I did not even know where Rancé 1795 is originated; France or Italy!
Anyhow, everything began with that Facebook post the friend wrote and told off about how skanky and disgusting L`Aigle de la Victoire (from now simply Victorie) is. Immediately I assumed that this would be something I dig for nowadays; a massive animalic. Researches began. Thanks to my dear friend in Jovoy Tehran I filled a sample when I first tried Victoire. That first impression was slap in my face!


The Rancé family has been working in the industry since the beginning of 1600's in Grasse. The family was famous for producing fragrant gloves for French aristocrats. In 1795 François Rancé's innovative spirits brought success and fame to the house. He entirely approached in perfumery and produced remarkable modern formula that attracted Napoleon's attention.
Rancé 1795 is a family business and a higher class master perfumer house with over 200 years of faithfully safeguarding Fançois's tradition and innovation.

What surprises me is that Victoire is not listed in the site's database! Victoire is a perfume from Collection Impériale line of Rancé produced in 2013 by Giovanni Rancé.

The fragrance opens so vibrant and edgy. The very first impressions is you either fall in love or repulse. This steadfast, certain and potent opening is parallel to what happens in a bunch of other notorious hair-chested phenolic leather fragrances as Caron Yatagan, Christian Dior Cuir Cannage, and Mona di Orio Cuir. You know this is not really difficult to set a perfume with leather start up but it is seriously a hard task to keep the balance and not overdo it.


The first shut of Victoire is on ephemeral, quickly subduing citruses that solve within hardcore leather. This tarry black opening promises of rather denser subsequent drama, which materializes by birch. Birch is an interesting wood. It has sad dark and omen senses and it easily duplicates animalic aura.


Victoire, nevertheless, for its core when earthy frosty vetiver appears and mingles with patchouli, is not a hardcore animalic fetish. It get's softer and dusty, a bit sweet and rounded yet still massive and gigantic. In this level, smart use of soft oud wood in the composition brings mystical aura to solid flat leather, and intensifies its woodsy acrid animalic attributions. Oud also grabs Victoire off from its classical chypré appearance and give it retro/modern masculinity.
One aspect that socks in Vicotire is its constant monotonic leather performance that stubbornly continues till the end, but if you say "better this way" then it's your perfume. It is rigid, over-masculine, cold, wintery, powdery creamy leather, massive and so so so serious. Don't even think about wearing it on a t-shirt or shirt without jacket. It has enormous longevity as expected and so as for trail.

Carpe Odor!

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