Wednesday, January 20, 2016

A bowline around captain's ankle: 40 Knots by Xerjoff

40 Knots by Xerjoff

Very straightforward and short I'm gonna write about this perfume cause enough said by other bloggers and youtubers, and all in descriptive way that you can reliably blind buy the right one you love!

Xerjoff released ten exclusive fragrances in 2012 (Don joined the club in 2013), each for one particular club and hobby activity; one is for literature, one is aviation, another one for jazz and so on… 40 Knots is for yachting in Mediterranean Sea.

I only tested six of them and honestly I'm not sure if I expected more or not. I mean I know I can't expect extraordinary smells from Xerjoff but extraordinary quality is expected, and those I tried from Join The Club was in fact somewhat much lower than my supposition. Bearing all of these mind, I'm sure I'm not the only one this around who thinks each member of JTC is paralleled by a designer equivalence.

The rise of the fragrance is sweet and aquatic woody. This term "aquatic" is the most fabricated term in entire perfume world. A vast bunch of masculine creations after second half of 90's till today have been launched with the concept of marine, aquatic, seashore… and the trend instantly grew towards designer fragrance market, yet, barely one percent of which clearly smelled like seawater or seashore, cause in reality sea has not a charming smell, and it is daring and annoying in a way.

40 Knots is among that %99. This perfume has nothing to do with water or yacht or whatever related to marine. I found it more near to Thanksgiving or Christmas, or maybe a cold long winter night in yacht club; but not a summery noon in yacht cruise vacation.

Photo from Instagram

The first impression is "I know this from somewhere" but this is a million dollar question you owe too much yourself if you know the answer.

The rise of the fragrance is on sparkling sweet mentholated spices and carnation. The spice is most clove and cinnamon, and perhaps pink pepper too. This opening reminds me three different fragrances at once: Acqua di Parma Fico di Amalfi (2006) plus Dunhill Desire for a Man (2000) plus Valentino V pour homme (2006). So this sums up in a theme with creamy, sparkling saline, fruity woodsy, spicy floral, and slightly ozonic.

Meanwhile, I saw people in Fragrantica voted for similarity between the actual fragrance and Serge Lutens Chêne! Really?! That's funniest joke ever.

The body of the fragrance loses sparking vibe but something marine and floralized like dense Iso E Super appears which looks like intense dose of coumarin-hearted amber accord, imparted within cedar. The core is woody, so sweet and throat-scratching yet not appetizing - the same sweet manner in A*Men series which attracts but doesn't lure to lick the bottle. I really tried to use all my imagination to link it to brass of steer of a yacht but honestly couldn't, it doesn't evoke any sense related to sea.

40 Knots more than to be a skillful yacht sailor's fragrance is a lounge bar jazz perfume. Unlike other collections from the house, and just as the rest of JTC perfumes, 40 Knots has disappointing synthetic appearance that stays for about 6 hours with enormous diffusion. However, if you care for compliments just go for it cause this perfume brought me many compliments just from my wrist.
I said short but seems I had too much to say!

Carpe Odor!

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