Sunday, January 31, 2016

Avant-garde oud: Blask by Humiecki & Graef

Blask by Humiecki & Graef




It is about trust. Humiecki & Graef's eighth fragrance is delivered in 2011 and like the other fragrances and as the main concept of the house, it is conceptualized upon human's emotional complexity, empathy, and psychic experience.
The actual fragrance takes of fundamental sense of trust which is of human's deepest bonds and a major factor of being a social creature. Blask is a Polish word meaning luster, glow, glitter, and brilliance. The shine of the sun and the glory of moon. The fragrance indicates to warmth of sense of trust and naked honesty.



Blask sets up with quaint gourmand touch of warm wine and lots of bay leaf. The opening is punchy and somehow repulsive but there's something that charms badly. The bay leaf accord is not the typical specie found in Italian boulevards, it's damp, un-savory and un-fresh. The wine smell is not actually the wine we drink, it's wine dropped on carpet and drenched within fluffy texture, it's raw and unprocessed, or better to say, smells like wine leesed in the bottom of glass from last night's dinner.

A sort of dusty clay-like smell escorts wine note and trims its metallic boozy smell off. It also deepens the structure and evokes mysterious feel. What Blask talks about, it does in the first whiffs and it reveals its bizarre unpretty face which is paradoxically valuable for being charming and unique while beasty like as in avantgarde fashion designs.


The opening is so intricate but not detailed. It's a dense combination of floral notes comes across wine and bay leaf. I can vividly get carnation and rose in the floral pitch. A few minutes later the real owner of the fragrance; walnut; jumps in and the messy opening immediately settles. It is mentioned walnut wood in the pyramid of Blask but honestly I don't find it woody.
I know animalic urine-like smell of walnut wood well, I made several sculptures out of this wood. The smell of walnut here is smell of green shed of walnut mingled with the woody shed, which is overly-ripe walnut with cracked spoiled shed.


The core is so woodsy but a type of woodsy, spicy, gourmand you hardly find a parallel to, and you don't easily dare to call woody. It gets even more complicated when shades of powdery, tarry, leather duplicating violet appears. Some reviews mentioned to this note and I join them hundred percent.

The base of the fragrance is ornamented with a note the fragrance is famous for: agarwood. Let me tell that this note is not so bold and not even in the core of spinning. It is a note in a corner, showcasing its modest and unqualified woodsy aspects (oud wood has more animalic and gourmand vibes than to be simply woody) and rendering the angular woodsy main-theme. So I disqualify those who compare this fragrance to oud fragrances that occupy shelves one by one.

Oud segues more in the base with faint and uncertain hints of olibanum. The base is resinous and slightly saline dry, and so powdery gourmand. Apparent hints of violet and leather show off in this level.

In overall, Blask is a weird perfume, a charming and highly attractive ugly face, and a perfume for special occasions but not necessarily for special people. It is elevated and outrageous like people in Scott Schuman's Sartorialis. I mean it's highly tied with fashion but not on catwalk, on seats watching catwalk maybe.

Blask lasts for several hours which I'm not sure if it'd be better if it'd last longer or not; about 7 hours on my skin counting on-skin performance. The beginning has a great sillage but then after about two hours it appears close to skin only. A nice wearable perfume to have, specially for weird lovers but not a mandatory item.

Carpe Odor!

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