Wednesday, January 13, 2016

In the spotlight: Fracas by Robert Piguet

Fracas by Robert Piguet


What could be more exciting than encountering the source of something? Like Fracas which is know a source in tuberose perfumes... A legendary perfume, a supreme transcendent that donates all the beauty you have been always looking for. This is my expressions upon new Fracas. Fracas might not necessarily be the first tuberose perfume, but it is obviously a premium one.

My mother is aromaphobic, more than allergy or whatever she can't stand perfumes, even the slightest ones bother her. My dad, surprisingly, is a typical 80's dad. He bears a whole year without perfume or take shower in one time with half a bottle of Coty Stetson in summer! By this mean, many perfumes we gift him exit our home just few weeks after it came in. There must be something related to this parent undialectical tastes that my nose is large as woodpecker's beak! It's probably an one-generation-evolution and the origin of my curiosity about all family member's perfumes that made me sneaking around in their restroom and bedrooms to try their perfumes! By the age of 15 I have known many vintage perfumes which have been considered day's hit. However...

I don't remember Fracas from any family members, any friend of mom or anyone at all (what a pointless story) but I don't know either why it makes me heart-beeps like I know it from someone in my remote memories. Maybe it's tuberose's magical power, or maybe it's Fracas's natural attributes. Fracas is a paramount in class and style and smell. It's a benchmark and a standard reference to tuberose and white indolic fragrances.

Fracas is orchestrated by master perfumer Germaine Cellier in 1948. It's the third in her sequence for the French fashion house of Robert Piguet. Before she work out on Fracas she had delivered two earlier fragrances (Bandit, 1944 and Visa, 1947), Coeur Joie (1946) for Nina Ricci, and Vent Vert (1947) for Balmain.
Germaine Cellier was born in Bordeaux, France in 1909. A wonderful woman, an aroma scientist, a pioneer in the industry, and an elite portrait in the era's fashion world. Although the earlier and later creations of Cellier are all artistic, yet she owes most part of her fame to her post-war 1948 creation - Fracas.

Today Aurelien Guichard is the responsible person to conserve Cellier's original formula while adapting it to new rules and criteria of using various raw natural materials. Cellier has encapsulated the formula with tuberose from India to amplify indolic and erotic power of the carnal plant and gain strong sillage, French jasmine - which is an indolic beast - to give luxury and delicate feminine boost, Italian iris root to duplicate dusty and powdery air, Tunisian orange blossom, and violet leaf to give it freshness and greenness. The result was intoxicating and chaotic.


Fracas opens lush, green, fresh, and slightly soapy sweet floral harmony. From the beginning all it says is fleshy tuberose and soapy African orange blossom. It's a five stars beginning performance. Play Ă‰dith Piaf and smell this layer! It's romantic! Then buttery aspects of tuberose swell but not marshy damp as this flower is notorious for.
A touch of peach and peony responses for the famous fruit bubble gum aura in Fracas. The heart of the fragrance is mature yet as young as opening of many others. It loses soapiness, tuberose settles, jasmine dominates and a floral symphony begins.
Fracas is gigantic floral, attractive, extrovert, versatile, luxurious and the olfactory equivalence of German expressionism light in cinema. I smell it and imagine how nice it was in the post-war sad Europe, such beautiful smell came out. It most probably donated a lifelike color.
It has whole day long longevity on my skin. It is so interesting how such small tubes of this forbidden flower can be such evocative and long lasting. Also as the title of the fragrance suggests for mess around in a crowded place and make a small chaos to get all the attentions to the wearer, it has great projection and long trail of smell. This is potential nature of tuberose.

Carpe Odor!

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