Sunday, January 31, 2016

Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas

Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas


After their exclusive perfume from L'Artisan Parfumeur (2005) with purple matte bottle named after Christopher street boutique - Aedes de Venustas - and after their own first collaboration with Bertrand Duchaufour in Eau de Parfum (2012) which is known as the signature of the brand, Iris Nazarena is their own second and generally their third perfume, collaborated with Ralf Schwieger. At the time of writing this review the boutique has collaborated for five in-house perfumes plus the one with L'Artisan Parfumeur.


Pierre de Nishapur

Iris is a vastly utilized note in perfumery yet digging out for first class iris fragrance is like doing for gold. Iris is a dominant note with dominant character. Rigid perfumes bore faster and, for that, 100ml iris perfume is an unfair exam of faith! Iris is a rigid note, it overpowers its persona and covers all the failures in design with vague pattern of smell.


In 2007 Polge's Dior Homme and Homme Intense made a big deal in designers that challenges many top irises. Also the reverent Serge Lutens Silver Iris Mist and Frederic Malle's modest Iris Poudre are two most renown yet least accessible perfumes in the market, so you use every single drop like elixir of eternity! In this huge market with less iris to respect, Iris Nazarena truly filled a big gap.

Pierre de Nishapur

Iris Nazarena leaves you speechless at the opening. A sturdy blast of dripping balmy iris root pumps out. Might be funny if I say the first bloom smells like new leather shoe in shoe box. That is probably because of musk mallow. It's kind of homey, cozy, indoor welcoming type of scent that embrace you wholly.

Incense and woodsy notes, leather and spices and rose all together merged in iris. Looks fascinating and it is. But the problem began when this mature generous daddy goes to the heart of performance when iris cools down and leathery oudy nuances intensify. Daddy ages down and becomes grandpa! Leather was ok, but oud shall not be here. Decay in iris reveals many failures. Sort of not high quality material that were hiding behind the flower are now clear. Leather itself deforms to balmy sweetness by anise.
For this level Iris Nazarena smells like someone rather than a perfume cause iris inactivates. It's like a grandpa smelling nostalgic, a bit old herbaceous, a bit milky and dry and probably a bit of smell of the cigarette he smoked. This old class 70's spirit in modern iris/leather/oud cloak is Iris Nazarena's original face.

Pierre de Nishapur

Wrapping up, I still believe this is one of the most successful iris fragrances specially for men, a good delivery and a fancy modern retro barbershop composition. But not definitely the best out in markets. I do believe it's very cheating composition that enchants you just in the beginning while the core presents hideous synthetic bungle works. Take care of iris and Iris Nazarena, it can be a boring note so try this perfume several times before you purchase upon your excitement of the opening. And if you're a guy with shifting taste do not go across a whole bottle.

It's a formal autumnal middle age compliment-bringer. If you're OK with the scent and the longevity and sillage factors are only matter of concern; which are great.

Carpe Odor!


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