Friday, January 22, 2016

Oh my goat: Pan by Anya's Garden

Pan by Anya's Garden

Gyula Benczúr, Pan in the Reeds (self portrait), 1910

There is something in common between American artisanal natural perfumeries which is a nostalgic flashback to 19th century apothecarial style. Many of them have unified spirit and smell which - to be rational - partially arises from limited materials in natural perfumery, and partially emerges from spirituality. Nevertheless, such unification and limited access don't halt innovation and Pan is a perfume you may not say "Meh!" as you say to many others in the trend, cause this perfume is interesting enough to discuss in a blog post, and what makes it significant is a material that everyone pauses a minute when hears: goat hair?!

Anya McCoy is a natural perfumery pioneer and community leader in the art, who has been working in this field since 1991. She is the President of the Natural Perfumers Guild, and wrote the first American textbook on perfumery, which is used in her courses at the Natural Perfumery Institute.

Where does the concept comes from? Is that for Anya McCoy's allergy to goat cheese or it is a part of an animism belief? Of course obsessions against goat milk products bring curiosity but the real concept lays behind Pharaohs and scented goat beards. Goats usually look for rock-roses and the resins of the plant stick in their beard. So each year when their beard have been trimmed, the resins stuck on their hair is cropped.

A labdanum-based structure is the heart of Pan to indicate of ertoism but the perfume is much beyond labdanum. Pan opens with vegetal musky tones, deeply soaked in fruits and terpenic air (probably fir resin cause it's so vinegar-like) and lavender. This pungent not-so-green opening promises for a strange core.

The labdanum, smartly and professionally, is set in the core of the fragrance to make all the elements spin around. It's kind of dusty, solid, and erotic composition that usually found in higher niche creations like Ô Hira. To define the smell of the resin maybe the term "iodine" is the right choice. It's so crimson and fetishist.

Boy, I'm fabulous!

But what is goat hair tincture? The story begins when Anya cuts goat forelock and mix it in alcohol. The tincture is a harmless, animal friendly replacement of musk - which is produced with sufferings of animal to death. This gives you the same animalic effect with softer and drier features.

Pan sets down in goaty, green vegetal, pheromonic floral pattern, still managed by smoky labdanum and patchouli. This hard-to-penetrate core has sort of bread-smell instead of vinegary opening.

The complete fragrance is floral woodsy and aromatic, hard to set, solid, mystical, intrigant, and sinful.
Although it is charged with strong notes, the overall tenacity is average or mediocre, and so as the sillage, yet, it's so amusing perfume to try!

Carpe Odor!

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