Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Samurai's blade: Japon Noir by Tom Ford

Japon Noir by Tom Ford


Cold season occupied everywhere and my syndrome alongside stupidly falling in love with ambers recurs. This is a life-long syndrome I live every fall and winter, randomly finalizes in buying just another amber. Happily I filled my basket with lots of ambers this summer and happily Japon Noir is out of production, as far as I know.

Anyhow, this perfume has always playing a suspended step for me and I still, after testing it for at least 20th time, am not sure if I love it or not. This is a generic aspect of amber since this note is a complex not and has definitive meaning from perfume to perfume.


Amber in Japon Noir is an unusual modern crisp amber which apparently is not Ambré 83 accord as appeared in Tom Ford Amber Absolute. I'm not very good at notes and blends specially amber but this ilk which we are facing here is an inky dusty crunchy and dark but not versatile and warm, like golden quality amber of Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, more inclined to Tauer's top seller incense.

Golden amber is the main chord, frequently used in classic oriental and floral to emphasize on their voluptuous air. Nevertheless, Japon Noir's amber accents the darkness and grayness of the aura.

Japon Noir introduces with appetizing angular citrus; strong spicy, a bit vulgar, with bold hints of cloves, cumin and perhaps cinnamon. This spicy theme is soft smoky and sour. The intro fits for masculinity but Japon Noir is not a mere manly perfume, even considering the spice assault.
Elena Vosnaki calls Japon Noir in her blog post an "androgynous" perfume and I do nothing but kneeling to her smart way of description. Japon Noir has ample male-extrovert personality, and hidden lewd feminine erotism. The masculine side is for bergamot, spices and upcoming vetiver's earthy foggy side.


After a while the opening theme submerges a little and smoldering fresh/burnt ambery vibes appear. This is kind of aldehydic amber with less vanilla but let me assure you the amber is neither the typical vanilla, labdanum, courmarin, etc. amber, nor it's the first role of the scent. More than called an amber perfume, Japon Noir is an inky vetiver/spice and leather fragrance, highly controlled by patchouli's gourmand dirtiness and jasmine's feminine carnality. Yet, I don't call the fragrance a spicy nor an amber. Cause of the shades of dry down reveals some facts.

For such artisanal inclusion, the dry out doesn't dwindle to a dilution, and it develops into perplexing rebel base with pungent hints of woodsy incense. It is olibanum. The notorious carpentry atelier smell of olibanum or frankincense appears in the core of the fragrance and it occupies the base.

To wrap up Japon Noir is a fresh/warm smoldering vetiver, spicy, leather, woodsy amber fragrance, extrovert, intricate, inky, dark, but shallow. It lasts about 7 hours on my skin which is considered higher than average with fair strong projection.

Carpe Odor!


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