Sunday, January 24, 2016

That mysterious familiar aura: Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal

Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal


By no particular purpose I did not go through this house adequately for long time, and I met and tested most of Annick Goutal perfumes only once. Perhaps one reason is inaccessibility since they are hard to find for me. The other reason could be the time I engaged with Annick Goutal, was the time I was deeply in hardcore and dark fragrances with punchy features which is apparently out of the house's standards.

Today, I realized that I neglected one of the most deserved houses in perfume industry who delivered many iconic perfumes. I can't say it's never too late to learn cause the time I'm writing this review Myrrhe Ardente is discontinued and you can find only the last batch on shelves, if available.

Myrrhe Ardente is a a part of Les Orientalistes trio which is result of a collaboration between Camille Goutal and the commended master perfumer; Isabelle Doyen; in 2007. The collection grows in 2008 by the last member Musc Nomade.
Myrrhe Ardente is an irreligious homage to eastern voluptuous element: myrrh, the erotic/ritual incandescent treasure. The perfume has dry smoky, comfortably sweet and introvert smell.

Frederic Louis Leve, A Harem Beauty Seated on a Leopard Skin, 1877

Primarily the perfume goes fiery and sensually warm with semi-woody semi-resinous air, plus slight dusty, and faint appetizing atmosphere, which is not for honey. This opening smells like cigar a bit, plus smell of burning plastic; a familiar aspect of realistic myrrh smoke.
By the way, the house lists the ingredients: benzoin, vanilla, tonka, honeyed beewax, guaiac wood, and myrrh. Fragrantica adds one extra note: vetiver.

Personally, I really love the smoky beginning. The woodsy dryness reminds me of my most beloved YSL M7. This is the very smoky woody aspect the original M7 used to charm with.
Soon after this arid mesmerizing intro, shades of beewax and honey appear but this is not that gourmand or dense as in Tobacco Vanille or Back to Black. It's soft. And soft nutty hint of tonka bean filters the smoky effect. This effect reminds me old Guerlain fragrances. Something common in that house's creations.

The core of Myrrhe Ardente is smoky with slight rancid vinegary smell in the background and you should smell it to get how marvelous this juxtaposition is. So light sweetness, pure woodiness, smoky and dry, very dry.

Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes is composed by through western eyes looking at eastern spirits. West is made by angles, east is on curves, and this collection meets the two shapes somewhere in between. Comparing to the other three members of the collection, Myrrhe Ardente slides to curvilinear side of orientalism.

Myrrhe Ardente is completely a personal perfume, a totally introvert, VIP, smoky, western oriental fragrance upon very first class smell of myrrh. It has good longevity, almost five hours on my skin. But you seriously would not say this has massive sillage. It's a skin-mist with least possible projection, yet, the scent itself is fascinating enough to remit the poor projection.

Carpe Odor!

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