Sunday, January 31, 2016

The great Gatsby and the greater Gatsby: Bois du Portugal by Creed vs New York by Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur

Bois du Portugal by Creed
vs
New York by Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur


It is necessary for every gentleman to have a classy masculine perfume in his collection. Many of such items are provided by designer brands and they have a vast variety of formal smells from every aromatic category. In niche world this concept is materialized by the most high-end brands and usually the elders of the industry like Guerlain, Creed, and many prestigious artisanal French and Italian houses.



I pick a twin choice to review which both are my most favorite from the brands. Bois du Portugal is my most beloved Creed (I seriously can't even see myself wearing most of their creations but this one) and New York is my beloved one from the house of Patricia de Nicolaï (although I can't strongly claim so cause I only tried seven from this house). Both these fragrances evoke the same feeling in me and cruise me to same atmosphere.

Creed delivered Bois du Portugal in 1987 by Olivier Creed Sixth Generation, and in 1989 Patricia de Nicolaï has delivered New York for her own maison Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur. Both fragrances support for luxury, self-confident classy formal style. But if we consider Boid du Portugal as the Great Gatsby, New York would fit for an elder personality like an elder brother of the Gatsby, it's the greater Gatsby.



New York

New York; a non stop multi cultural city you can't stop and never see sleeping. The way it interprets citruses with fresh lavender is indescribably marvelous. Very green, very fresh and juicy crisp, very optimistic and dandy. I like it cause it has a certain manner, and gives very clear message. Also, it illustrates past metropolitan lifestyle clearly. New York is a French take of New Yorker moods.


This fragrance is not an unique or avant-garde composition; in contrary, it's a standard legal release you can find several examples by a small search in settled perfume houses. It's a lavender/citrus dominant aromathrapical classic composition out of all of marketing obsessions that lead the industry era by era. It has also a soft leather and pepper dimension that recalls for warm and fluffy sensual base, and the base if provided by amber accords. Amer in New York is not an animalic one, it's vanillic and cinnamony, with herbaceous and woodsy aspects.
New York is a rich  fragrance, very grown and settled, fresh, spicy, a bit smoky, and very effective and active. It has moderate longevity on my skin and surprisingly higher longevity on my shirt! Also, mellow and not so great in projection. It's a close dialog fragrance for handshaking of two businessman in Zegna suits, not a perfume for a conference hall.



Bois du Portugal

Bois du Portugal has different story. This cologne tends much to English manner and bears kind of rounded fruity signature of Oliver Creed. It has vibes of famous English aromatic ferny smells and is also close akin to Houbigant Fougère Royale.


Bois du Portugal delivers lesser fresh but yummy lavender compared to New York. It has more vibes spinning around this note and shows it more grown than in New York.
With robust and warm sensuality it begins. For me Bois du Portugal is a young English poet in a villa in vacation somewhere in south Europe in his trip from London! Very delicate, very polite and very well-mannered. Then in the base the shades of cedar and sandalwood appear and the fragrance gradually sets in woody, and warmer atmosphere but it doesn't get any longer in woodsy vibes. Keeps the depth and finally shades of vetiver and pseudo-marine saline vibes appear. A combination of woods, dusty smell, and saline theme, what a magnificence.
Bois du Portugal has the same longevity as in New York; higher than average. And it has a bit stronger projection than New York yet not so vast.

No one can clearly claim which scent is better and why, cause in the matter of material and technique, both are flawless. In the matter of style and character again both are flawless. Both are identical and perfect signature scents. One is younger and one is more formal. I personally would pick New York a couple of years ago but I think today I pick Bois du Portugal. As I age, I miss my happy past!

Carpe Odor!

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