Saturday, February 6, 2016

50 years, 50 materials, 50 bottles: Gardelia by Bogue Profumo

Gardelia by Bogue Profumo

Antonio Gardoni, architect and perfumer, who last years occupied an priceless room in animalic fans' heart with his extraordinary and authentic classical MAAI, has recently worked out on a semi-bespoke fragrance for celebration of 50th anniversary of opening Profumeria Sacro Cuore boutique in Bologna and also 50th anniversary of the owners' wedding; Giovanni and Lia Padovan.
"I had no limits in every possible sense and the brief was to celebrate the gardenia flower that grows in their garden and it's deeply linked to their life and history" he mentions, and continues that this gives him an opportunity to employ outrageous materials for an unique result.

What is significant about Antonio's works is his pungent signature in the composition. Now, after his animalic MAAI and his hesperidic citrus O/E, it is quite understandable that Gardoni intends to overpowering art nouveau'ish and authentic classical compositions. In architecture we consider it a postmodern inclination. Strong materialism, and strong ties to settled retro air. Good or bad, in the matter of context of smell, it delivers a feeling that is supported by courageous use of natural raw ingredients. Gardelia is a flower explosive hides behind its utmost indolic persona. This perfume contains fifty ingredients, among which three types of gardenia absolute that contain %6 of the overall composition, two jasmines, premium rose, tuberose, frangipani, magnolia, civet, cognac, and probably geranium are eye-catching.

Beside designing the perfume, Gardoni designed the bottle inspired upon an old bottle the couple own. The design and collaboration with a talented Venetian glass master in Murano island lasted 6 months. The cap symbolizes a basket of fruits and flowers and at the same time exhibits a cracked open pomegranate.

Now, let's get back to the heart of topic: smell.
As expected from the ingredients Antonio arranged, we're facing an indolic giant: tuberose, several jasmines and gardenias, frangipani, magnolia... Antonio Garodni's works always remind me Alphonse Mucha paintings and glory of art nouveau. Both Bogue and art nouveau has something in common: sense of movement forward to future, with always keeping an eye open to the eminence of past.

Gardelia unfurls with literally punchy floral theme, highly merged into notorious fumed up toothpaste theme Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur and Grossmith Phul Nana are famous for. This opening is so fleshy, so metallic, and so straightforward to a specific type of classics: gardenia. It shouts gardenia.

The first whiff is a extremely floral, yet you know how extraordinary indolic flowers smell. A pungent hint of dust smell, fat and dry, gets in the context and makes it rather baffling. The tightly tied up composition is much beyond my tolerance and I usually get headache but seriously how can I just neglect my curiosity? There are carnal nuances in gardenia/tuberose/jasmine fragrances as much as rigidity. Rose has a great power on the composition in the beginning. It delivers metallic feeling to the sweet-intended gardenia/tuberose, and the floral platform cannot get rid of rose till the fragrance settles.

Once settled, it gets far from repulsive opening and develops in fresher, sweeter, dustier and animalic gardenia and tuberose. The heart of fragrance is a super classic and high level like dinning in a luxurious restaurant where you have to reserve a table from months ago!

Peppery, so dusty, warm waxy and extremely fat. I like the colossal manner of Bogue Profumo. Whatever he makes has a spirit of Roman empire! Bogue perfumes are so bulky like Roman columns. But maybe Gardoni should beware of the use of naturals. Natural materials are impure molecules with too much dimensions that in overall conjure up multidimensional feelings and effects. For that a slight dose of pure gardenia absolute may act like a liquid bomb and give headache.

For that, I find the opening of Gardelia in great paradox to its sumptuous heart which I'm infatuated for. The opening needs a trim into more diagonal attributes, to reduce edges from this floral animalic assault, yet, assuring that revision would not change the complete fragrance with its fleshy woodsy and crisp dry smell. However, this is just theoretical cause the quantity is so low, only 50 bottle released.

After few hours when I can say the fragrance apparently aged down into dry out, I get slight hints of lactonic fruits like peach in Mistouko, yet, all is dominant is still dusty and crisp white floral patch.
To wrap up, Gardelia is a special dedicated formula released in vary small amount with 850€ price tag. The fragrance refers to retro early 20th century luxurious air. It is floral but not sweet and oriental, it is dusky, crisp, dusty, dirty animalic, dry and extremely indolic. Fans of true classic tuberose or gardenia would definitely die for it. It's a freehand and lavish take on indolic white flowers to infinite level. I seriously don't think one can release such daring composition on these edgy flowers. Splendid!

Carpe Odor!

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