Friday, February 12, 2016

It is not only pleasure and lust that erotism points on: Italian Angel by O'Driù

Italian Angel by O'Driù

Inge Prader, photography inspired by Gustav Klimt paintings

One of my most amusing blog postings is writing on Angelo Orazio Pregoni's works. At the same time, O'Driù is always a hard task to come across cause the perfumes are in fact more than liquids. Each article is a media itself to manifest, to demonstrate, to cite something not delivered by lingual abilities, or not preferred to indicate by verbal language. Like a painting its full of personal points of view and I have to discover Angelo's persona in the context of smell and deliver his message clear as he made perfume upon!
Last year O'Driù prepared a very active portfolio. VenDetTa, Captivus, L'Inferno 2, Satyricon, and eventually at the final days of 2015, Italian Angel has joined the party. Every single element has a certain definitive concept and artistry idea, twisted in mysterious and semi-gourmand style of Angelo.

Gourmand is Pregoni's accent. As a chef and perfumer, consciously or unconsciously, he employs both his olfactive abilities and his knowledge of gastronomy into his fragrances and the result is always a grotesque'ish and chiaroscuro type of smell full of unspoken dimensions that reminds me Caravaggio's canvases.
This, on the other side, is a portal to filter the audience: are you in the club or not! The same way Slumberhouse and some other artistic fragrance houses work. And believe me, if you get in, you fall in love badly till the apocalypse. There's no escape from this mesmerizing mystical world.

The idea of Italian Angel emerges from a friend's suggestion to create a typical Italian perfume, but at the same time this ambiguous definition was entirely an antithesis to ambitions and criteria of O'Driù which is more inclined to make original perfumes. The suggestion opened a box and plan turned to make a perfume that is Italian, without being a part of mainstream kitsch and marketing: erotism is the answer.

Side B of the Roman Warren Cup, with the wreathed erotic conqueror and his dainty boy

Erotism is permanent part of Roman empire history since the advent and even earlier as the evidences approve. And this concept has tight relationship to gourmand smells as both emphasize on deep pleasure! Maybe that's why Angelo's arts are always imparted with invisible or flamboyantly shown gourmand attributes. However, it is not only pleasure and lust that erotism points on. While perfumery has been always introduced by facile divine feelings and unreal charm, erotism is the most physical aspect of being. It's realistic, earthy and humanistic, and tied to our emotions.

Italian Angel initiates with unpredictable frequently shifting banana-vetiver platform. The very first whiffs are on naughty and kind of sinful banana. It's not grown as in Vittoria Apuana, it's cute, but beside green basil and frown dusty vetiver it turns to something complex.

The opening of Italian Angel is subjective. It flashes an intro to give you an idea with what kind of smell you're facing. The grown fragrance appears quickly. It's not yummy but it is so related to gastronomy. It's cacao and coffee beans, tobacco, persimmon, rose, and benzoin. Tobacco and rose, in a concealed way to amplify gourmand mood, is the author's signature. Yet the whole thing is not tobacco'ish nor rosy. It's cacao and coffee in great quantity and as not expected, the composition doesn't smell like a dark chocolate or Starbucks coffee. It smells odd and dark and a bit dry like bread! Seriously it smells like bread or bread pudding. I mean bread with something delicious that smell prettily fascinating.

The way it presents coffee in the background of cacao and vetiver is so unique. I'm afraid to set Italian Angel in category of coffee perfumes, but at the same time it is so coffee and the smell of pseudo-bread comes from the bean. This bread-like smell is in battle with cola-like smell of cacao and tonka and vanilla! Yet, there's something that you can't call this perfume a gourmand and that's a shade of gasoily smell in the very deep abyss of the perfume. This shimmering light in horizon keeps the whole structure in an omen serious manner like a mysterious ritual.... as I'm an atheist and have least cares to religions I don't go to details but I'm sure your mind most probably is directed to Eyes Wide Shut movie and I want it exactly!

Italian Angel is so different to prior works of O'Driù. It's oriental, mysterious, not so dark, nor so vegetal and pungent, it's soft and mass-pleasing yet not commonplace to be found in every corner of mainstream shops, nor even a parallel perfume. It's an O'Driù after all, and it has a complex message of a book compacted in one single word. The perfume has medium to high longevity, and soft projection. It stays more to skin like a personal perfume. I like it so much although I'm so doubtful about twisted gourmand when the issue is personal. It's so Italian!

Carpe Odor!

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