Monday, February 29, 2016

Pearl necklace glimmers: Fars by Xerjoff

Just by my curiosity about how others see my culture, I asked a sample of Fars from a friend in Jovoy Paris. Fars is a member of Oud Stars series of the house of Xerjoff that is released in 2012  by Chris Maurice who's the author of most of Xerjoff, Al Kimiya, and Sospiro fragrances. Fars, beside five others of this collection, is composed for gratitude of traditional Middle Eastern perfumery and each gem is named after Ibn-i Battuta's travel literature.

Fârs, Persian or Pârs, is a term dedicated to local race who lived in territories of Persian empire. Archaeologically and anthropologically this definitions are still unidentified precisely, nevertheless, we informally call Fârs whoever in the majority of current territory of Iran who speaks Persian or Fârsi.

Triumph of color and light in Nasir ol'Molk mosque, Fars Province, Iran

The fragrance is an interesting type of smell. A clear déjà vu for me and it comes from instant and hasty opening which is composed on zesty bergamot, savory lavender and tender feminine touch of ambergris that immediately reminds me a delightful summer dessert in Fars Province of Iran named Faloudeh! It's a yummy mixture of starch strings, reserved in icy sugar and rosewater syrup for hours and served with fresh lime and with or without fruit syrup! I deliberately prefer pure form. Although it has sugar it's a remedy for hot summer days and makes you shiver in spine!

Mixtures of saline marine notes, fresh crisp Italian bergamot and French herbal lavender always call for a pseudo-metallic vibe that I know very well from fresh oud fragrances of Montale. The same metallic smell of rose that annoys a bit and I really don't like the opening of Fars though I die for faloudeh!

Maybe because citrus, lavender and marine vibe do not come in a dialectic conversation. It's kind of clash of intense freshness in warmth saltiness that baffles me and hardened muscles in my temple and forehead.

The long-term opening finally settles and the hideous circus semi-gourmand smell turns to an elaborate pearl-necklace-deserving feminine smell. A sonata in eastern accent, a pleasant woody marine base under smooth and ripe geranium. Geranium has a delightful jammy smell in its grown form. I like the plant so much. In any case it has a fresh, amusing, versatile and bold characteristic smell. Geranium in Fars, more than expected or known in niche creations like Geranium Pour Monsieur, tends to Chanel's 90's works like Allure Pour Homme. I mean it's mainstream and mass-pleasing to emphasize on luxurious comfort and wealth, not characteristics of plant or a vibrant type of artistic green fragrance, and it's successful if it seriously aimed to.

Fars is not an oud fragrance but imitates like a fresh oud. It is soft, tender, more female-leaning, warm, marine, versatile, springy and it evokes sense of trust! But its opening is so constant, hardly transfers into heart, and heart is not as powerful as pungent opening. It's like a captivating marine lavender and geranium mist with high quality; in case you concern with shouting sillage!

Carpe Odor!

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