Wednesday, March 9, 2016

Smell my gun chamber: 1805 Tonnerre by Beaufort

Clarkson Frederick Stanfield, The Battle of Trafalgar, 1836

By suggestions and kindness of a friend in Paris I currently discovered the house of Beaufort with their two fragrances 1805 and East India (which I was going to write first but 1805 Tonnerre interrupted with very powerful statement and spoiled the game, so I'm now on his court)!

Leo Crabtree, musician and writer, established his own niche fragrance house in London with his three fragrances (add Cœur De Noir) in 2015. His 1805 tells a story....

What fragrances you introduce if I invite all to a classification for most challenging, unique and strangest fragrances ever? Several hundred examples spin in your mind from niche and artisanal perfume houses but let me assure you, you would probably remove most by first try on 1805 Tonnerre.
This perfume is an incredibly and inexplicably bizarre, enormously dark (literally dark with any definition in any dictionary), and at the same time simple! Simple, yes. It tells about a story that you don't strain to understand at all. Just close your eyes and sniff from alpha to omega and you name a marine battle, heavy wooden battleships with their cannons and smog of gunpowder, stains of blood splashed here and there on deck of ships, bell sound of sword clashing... white flags, several hundreds wounded, some died, some are captured... Sea is now tranquil - but not in its mesmerizing landscape - with corpses and smashed timbers floating on water between ships.

Even if you don't have a naval war name in your mind you entirely capture the idea of a bloody war in old times between tens of ships in which one should win and one lose. That was battle of Trafalgar that occurred in 21 October 1805 between Royal Navy and allied French and Spanish navies, and Crabtree borrows the idea to create his perfume.

1805 uncorks with utmost vulgar smoky vibe ever seen in perfume realm. It's an assembly of smoky accords, gunpowder and brandy, yet not a warm scent, it's freshened and bizarrely freshened by assertive citrus that promises for metallic blood smell. The same apothecarial vibe is in Opus Oils Star Fucker. Very straightforward the nose demonstrates the first explosions of the battle by such aggressive smell in first episode. Gunpowder's acidic smell is enough to give the idea wholly. Plus brandy and smoke accord, it's entirely like burnt coal in blacksmith's forge and smell of beaten iron. Boy, it's a fantastic smell which I don't dare to wear.

The smoky vibe, however, doesn't last forever as no war lasted forever. The fragrance settles in a bloody soot-like carbon smell like smog masked on faces of wounded soldiers. This metallic mood intensifies the powerful saporific smog. You only feel relax when high dose of Calone appears in dry down with cedar and fir. Don't expect a fresh woody aquatic comfort, you're on deck of a crushed battleship with smell of blood, moans, and burnt gunpowder... The base is smoky aquatic and saline but not an oceany performance...

Omerpervaiz in Fragrantica states: "This perfume gets top score for uniqueness and creativity but that does not mean it is a good scent ... I would never dare to wear it". I join him in the idea, unique but unwearable.

Also another member whom I like for style of reviewing, deadidol, says: "Lots of smoke, BBQ-style scorched woods, and something that dithers between molten plastic and soap. As much as I would love to say it’s an adventurous, daring composition (to match the pantomime ad-copy), 1805 is just poorly done....".

Yes, that's the most debatable part of story of a perfume. Personally I would wear it on stage of Penny Dreadful in old London's mean streets but today, in real life, among public, no of course. I like unique smells and twisted perfumes but I don't like realistic smell of twisty things in perfume matched to a story. The perfume's biggest drawback is wearability, specially when we consider "we're not fully worn without a perfume" that emphasizes on fashionability which it entirely out of the actual perfume's world. 1805 is not a perfume, it's a scent and it's hardcore.

Carpe Odor!

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