Sunday, March 6, 2016

Smoked whiskey, leather sofa and cigar: Fumoir by Arte Profumi

Fans of hardcore birch leather perfumes take note. A prestigious branch of leather fantasy is devoted to classical Cuir de Russie compositions orchestrated around birch tar, leathers and soil tincture or tobacco, to enhance the effect of birch-tar-cured leather armors of Russian soldiers*. Fumoir is a member of this fashionable leather club. A perfume that concertizes palatial smoke of cigar, leather seats, and wood and velvet furniture in gentlemen's club.

Arte Profumi is a Rome-based almost new professional perfume house which began with twelve perfumes in 2013 and set strong step in perfume world with a complete manifestation. The actual perfume, Fumoir, is an artistic smoky leather and a twisted, or lets say new idea, form of Russian leather fragrances.

Fumoir's notes are: rose, leather, Chinese birch tar, ambergris, tobacco, cumin and pepper.

Fumoir unfurls with bitter boozy and berserk smoky vibe full of pleasure, verging, at one side, to campfire smoke, and at the other side, emphasizing on sybaritic leathery aura that eventually imitates realistic smoked cask single malt Scotch. The fragrance has pungent ancient medicinal boozy style that promises for a lush smoky and groaning leather, and indicated on extreme masculinity with "no women allowed" sign!

A regretful nostalgia for fans of classy leather fragrances, and at the same time, fans of tremendously phenolic leathers is missing gasoline mood in violet ester of Dior Fahrenheit that is still a matter of argue. Fumoir recovers that in crude oil form in the beginning. A giant tar assault - which I have not seem such brutality before without repulse - unleashes and plays magnificently on my skin...

Suddenly, it takes me where I have visited once years ago. Hunted a boar in woods with father and others, we brought the hunt to a man in a village to smoke the meat and cure the hide. Fumoir, once settled in heart, immediately reminds me that smokehouse. A near-to-crack-down log cabin with no windows, blackened door and circle stone open-top fireplace in the middle to just make smoke.

I forgot where I borrowed the picture but it's not that smokehouse, it's somewhere in China

As it goes, the leather gradually ages and delivers dashing aura to heavy birch tar hegemony. Its dry out opens curtains and some other elements show up and you clearly notice that the perfume is structured upon ambergris scaffolding and un-flavored tobacco that is like bass guitar in a heavy metal concert full of destructive noises, but it is there and performs in the base of the fragrance.
It is very interesting that ambergris presents saline vibe that keeps leather quite realistic and dandy. Of course, a part of this bitterness is for cumin. It could be an aristocratic leather if it hasn't been subdued by hefty birch that encapsulates the entire performance.

Fumoir hires birch's hardcore face but in a smart way to sum up with a new definition of Russian leather fragrances. Fumoir is dark, black, smoky, and tarry like cold coal after BBQ. This is a kind of fragrance you refer to if you're doubtful about definition of smoke in perfumery. Yet, its edgy aristocratic manner is also like Damocles sword for its very rigid smokiness, for that you may rise your finger questioning "how can I wear this". The answer is Fumoir is not every vocation's and every personality's perfume. It's a very special delivery like a custom Maybach.

*Russians soldiers used to wax leather armory and boots by birch tar to enhance its flexibility and smoothen it, as mush as increase its resistance against cold and moisture that spoil leather. Also this extracted pitch was in use as disinfectant in leather dressings. Such dark and solid unwoody smell became inspiration source for many perfumers to introduce Russian leather fragrances to European courts.

Carpe Odor!

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