Sunday, May 1, 2016

Sorrow and suffering: Serge Lutens De Profundis

Many thanks to Ali Mellati for this nice shut.

I was going to write this article much earlier when the house sent me a 5ml dabbing jar last autumn, but for certain reasons I have postponed it to spring to match my points and perceptions. Serge Lutens who frequently looks to east for source of inspiration, in this 2011 exclusive jar perfume (it is still available in small quantity in 50ml spray bottles here and there on internet or some boutiques) deliberately closes eyes to Morocco and merely refers back to his European origin. De Profundis is perhaps Lutens' least oriental perfume, so as Sheldrake's least oriental work for the house.

"As long as I'm alive, so is my Death. Every hero on a quest for glory is racing towards the proof of his mortality.The scent of chrysanthemums and incense"
This is the current description on house's webpage. You may find longer descriptions in earlier reviews as in Perfume Shrine. My first impression is almost the same to all earlier reviewers' who stated De Profundis is not necessarily about death or grief. I hereby am indicating on impact of cultural background on perceptions and emotions cause I totally get something different; largely in contrast with Lutens' statement.

The inspiration source for the fragrance comes from æsthete Oscar Wilde to his friend and lover, Bosie (Lord Alfred Douglas) during his imprisonment in Reading Gaol.

De Profundis unleashes on skin with cold and fragile floral theme set with soprano accent that emerges petrichor smell and telluric vibes. I use telluric instead of dusty to emphasize on wet soil and fertility of the ambiance. While this mystical flirtatious and acerbic floral aura means sad mood to Lutens, it highly evokes the sense of spring and new year celebration in Persian culture that happens at 21th march, and as a result it delivers joy and vivality. By this, I don't hundred percent deny his vista through the scentscape of chrysanthemum cause more or less, I feel something's weird in this fragrance. Something unusual and out of order keeps me worrying and triggers an unnamed unease feeling. The impact of this minute-noised floral patch is that large that I would wear it in Bach's majestic funeral, if I would follow the trend. That gigantic impact comes from camouflaged animality behind green earthy note that deals in a great oddity which is Lutens' persona. It's soft, creamy and hesitatingly sweet, but opaque that hard to acquire.
Since I'm insist on distinct perceptions emerged from cultural diversities, obviously I go on regardless to the inspiration concept and Oscar Wilde's letter, however, a true judge should look through the perfume from that angle.

I fell myself in a crowded simplixity with De Profundis in a strange world like Crown of Love by Charles Hossein Zenderoudi
1972, oil on canvas

As the scent settles in core it unveils remote tinges of smoky woodsiness like a touch of incense and oriental spicy dimensions but very very soft like just wanting to make a layer to keep violet and chrysanthemum hefty and piercing. This tinge swifts ferny dewy beginning into more woody peppery floral aura with sour savory green dryness that smells amazingly natural but in fact is a great abstract painting. Underneath this layer a touch of indolic incognito flowers delivers kind of kinkiness and skankiness. What makes De Profundis rather a special case of curiosity is its unusual and apothecal ultramarine blue color of liquid which is quite unfit for a random perfume. I admire Serge Lutens' obsession with his creations about bottle, color, package, and last but not least aromas.

In a general scoop, De Profundis is a simple perfume with complex measurement like brevity of a whole love affair in a quadrant. But the result is threatened by rumors of stability and sillage. Sillage is not an excuse. I have first tried this perfume via spray samples and I join whoever thinks jar flacons are better specifically for this perfume. This is not a perfume for massive projection. But about longevity, though I personally have to issue with longevity, it plays quite enough on my skin for about 8 hours but so murmured and close to body. Rating De Profundis for public? I avoid, I found it very personal perfume and different from skin to skin. I found it very feminine, and my wife refused my theory and called it over-masculine. You definitely should try yours skin under the fragrance.

Carpe Odor!

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