Thursday, June 2, 2016

Bloody flowers of Persia: Fêtes Persanes by Parfums MDCI




To illustrate an olfactory journey through orient from lands of great empires and ancient civilizations where sun never set in their territories, the French house of Parfums MDCI has recently launched the third part of a trio dedicated to scented travel on Silk Road. Cécile Zarokian, who formerly delivered Cio Cio San and Les Indes Galantes for the collection, is responsible for Fêtes Persanes which takes place somewhere in ancient Persia.

For Fêtes Persanes, I worked on the sensation, the feeling and texture of silk, to evoke a silky fabric, satin, something soft and comforting, like a velvety impression. I was thinking of brocades and caftans, picturing caravansary and spices along the road. I wanted a fresh opening with bergamot, pepper and clove, followed by warmer spices like cinnamon and cardamom, to surround a silky and velvety rose, with cedar wood, vanilla and musk for a creamy and soft dry down.
Mentions Cécile Zarokian. But the title comes from Claude Marchal's impressions from French composer; Jean-Philippe Rameau's famous 17th century eponymous opera ballet: Fêtes Persanes. The house also presents the perfume in flat square flacon ornamented by Ottoman tile motifs in 100ml quantity as well as conventional 75ml column bottles.


Photo taken from Lianne Tio Parfums

Fêtes Persanes has very distinct spicy dimension. It unfurls with exuberant yet quaint touch of juicy bergamot and pepper atop cinnamon and cardamom. In the result it establishes a signature from the beginning with scrumptious saporific theme that promises of a lush chypre-inclining rose, but the flower imbues with instant bergamot and spice duet and turns to juicy rosewater. What makes me seriously wonder is the intimacy between these few elements with their great impact, provide kind of bloody metallic floral atmosphere which I have barely seen even in high-end creations. It also stays away from the main criteria of Parfums MDCI. While most of their formulas are classical and European, the latest member pumps in unique oriental vein.

I'm not sure if Cécile Zarokian have ever read Persian literature but there's an intriguing interrelation between the scentscape and role of rose and blood in Persian literature. Fêtes Persanes tantalizes with uprising camouflaged smoky vibe within rosy spicy cadence.
Didn't I explain about cloves yet? Yes it's their time to impart with piercing pseudo-animality which is enlarged by shades of guaiac wood and patchouli, and later with sheer musky hue in the base. Cloves; which has been participating from intro; establish paradox between fluffy woody base and angular spicy top. It also bring faint faunic nuances to patchouli and cedar; both mandatory to deliver the concept of a scent related to Persia.

Fêtes Persanes is an intriguing oriental spicy fragrance with pungent burst of un-chypre citrus and peppers married to chypre rose. It leans towards intense cinnamon and cardamom and hover with this duet until the perfume dries down. Guaiac wood, cedar, earthy patchouli, and stingy cloves are other motifs of this opulent Persian carpet. It has seriously strong tenacity and and extended trail of smell. I have recently discovered Xerjoff Dhajala has the same bloody smell but it is seriously incomparable. Fêtes Persanes is literally an unique olfactive experience through oriental realm.

Carpe Odor!


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