Monday, June 13, 2016

Perfume is part of us even before we exist: Seminalis by Orto Parisi


"Scent has always provided a direct path to the soul", says Mandy Aftel. But what happened that scent and sense of smell has become foreigner part of human being? As mankind began to walk on feet, whoever he improved his sight, he drifted his nose apart from ground where he used to follow scent trails. He also lost his olfactory capabilities. Sense of smell, nevertheless, in species who participated less in evolution is still a pivotal characteristic in hunting, alarming for danger, regeneration, and miles away migrations.


Alessandro Gualtieri, in his youngest perfume line Orto Parisi, obsesses with the lost part of humanity and manifests "the parts of the body that carry more smell are those where more soul is collected". Actually not entirely lost, we still have our personal body odor.

Orto Parisi his time wants to create a scent that goes deeper than exterior body odors - the smell of odor inside our bodies. A fragrance (or imaginative odor) which seems to stimulate sexual attraction of female to male. Based on researches that claim female eggs release aromatic aldehyde scent near to smell of muguet flowers and send olfactive message to male sperm. Sperms' olfactory receptors follow the track to penetrate egg. This way Seminalis declares that perfume is part of us even before we exist.

To talk about the content of smell, Seminalis appeares much different to the rest of the collections and stays less The Nose'ish than other creations of the three perfume lines by the artists. First of all, since no one has yet written a blog review on this perfume, let me indicate this is not another Sécrétions Magnifiques type of oddity. Seminalis, in fact, is kind of controversial and familiar odor accented in peculiar aura. A warm woody heart with conservatively scrumptious citrus top.


Seminalis unfurls with a creatively implemented accord of citrus which entwines with warm woody floral heart from the beginning. A compilation of mandarin, neroli, lemon and soft bergamot, are all in high contrast with milky floral sandalwood and lily (not pretty sure) in the heart. The introduction; though fresh and juicy; leaves the scene for heavily oozing accord of milkiness and spiky floral theme. Hints of narcotic jasmine and musk increase camouflaged indolic and animalic nuances to deliver carnality. Meanwhile, I wonder. If bourgeonal should smell lily of the valley to picture olfactory attraction between egg and semen cells, why Seminalis proceeds in sandalwood and milky floral accords? Of course, while lily of the valley might be carnal to sperms, the flower certainly doesn't evoke any in mature human! That's why scent doesn't merely overlap the idea and Gualtieri abstractly illustrates the atmosphere by warm, damp, and fat sweet animality to emerge that renown carnality which sandalwood is responsible for. Yet, rationally or upon notion, few raw feedback in forums indicate to its carnal impact. Certainly, it differs from individual to individual.

The warm woody floral theme exhibits signs of Gualtieri's famous signature that appeared strongly in Boccanera and Black Afgano under name of oud accord, nevertheless, it is insufficiently bold to be another hit in the collection. That mysterious smell which Gualtieri put a great deal of effort to personify, reminds me painter who himself is more a debatable topic than his art. After China White from Nasomatto line, Orto Parisi Seminalis; with very slight sign of the common spawn; is the least Gualtieri'sh fragrance from the nose. Wearable, honestly nice, friendly yet weird, with strong longevity on skin and mediocre sillage.

Carpe Odor!

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