Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Extraordinary citrus Part I: In the mood for embracing the sea, Matin d'Azur by Bissoumine




Totally surprisingly, this summer I have tried several extraordinary citrus-optimizing fragrances that entirely changed my point of view through citrus compositions. Citrus group (whether neroli-based, fruit-based or classic petitgrain blends) are usually taken not seriously considered because of their cologne type of quality and for their modest smells. They are innocent and compared to amber family or leather compositions, they are too loose to be considered. But here's the first member of those extraordinary citruses, Bissoumine's latest release: Matin d'Azur.



"The inspiration was the Mediterranean light, once opening the windows in the morning, here in the French Riviera, and seeing the blue sky and breathing this morning fresh air", says the nose. Kitty Shpirer captures the sun and translates it with citruses to deliver a message from a distinct point of earth with its unbearably beautiful spectra: Mediterranea. More than a sea. A mother to great civilizations, a vast bounteous water who shelters several cultures and languages, but one unified spirituality.


This painting gives me the ultimate joy Matin d'Azure delivers.
Raoul Dufy, Nice, Baie des Anges, 1927

Matin d'Azur surges with effervescent smell of an unique citrus accord composed of fresh lemon leaves, juicy sour bergamot and bitter citron. The trio is incredibly natural, mouthwatering and delectable. This opening is the main identity of the fragrance: a weird citrus, quite natural, bitter, sour, juicy and sweet, with slight touch of something camphorous in background... It's way perplexing and highly intriguing. Honestly, I haven't seen such citrus fruit accord before. It has a brimming energy of life and passion of summer in this level. An exuberant touch of citrus and woody tones, a real Carpe Diem!

From this dusty and effervescent opening the fragrance gets in a sudden shift and settles with citron bitterness. Citron has a distinct characteristics from other citruses. Its divine and luring scent confronts its ugly shape and bitter, hollow, and unfavorable fuzzy taste. While I can't get rid of this fruit in the opening, my wife is badly in love with its grown smell towards the heart of composition where lactonic shades of osmanthus and peach come up (this means I need to refresh my shopping bag and prepare for a surprise for her). She says "this perfume is like a labyrinth you're afraid to get in. You don't fear of getting lost, you love to get lost in it. It invites to to a mesmerizing convey". This apparently comes from clash of citron and leathery lactonic sequence of heart of composition. She loves lactonic smells unconsciously. Specially when they merge with fizzy or smoky auras. Matin d'Azur might not be smoke but with shades of guaiac wood and cedar in basement it persuades with a slight hint of pseudo-smoky atmosphere.


Matin d'Azur is in fact a simple composition with enormous impact. A touch of elaborately picked citruses that bring vibe of joy and deep inner feelings. It is conceived with profound wish to deliver optimistic and positive energy. It has great tenacity on skin and murmured sillage which makes it a personal perfume with small radiance of projection. I hesitate to name any similar perfume. I honestly don't know any near example. This is a mandatory perfume if you're curious about natural and distinct summery compositions. Matin d'Azur exhibits citruses' natural and wild facets.

Carpe Odor!

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