Saturday, July 23, 2016

Opulent chocolate: XJ 17/17 Symphonium by Xerjoff

Xerjoff luxury house of perfumes has recently launched three new exclusive fragrances for British Fortnum&Mason boutique. Aubres is a new member of Shooting Stars so as Emery, and Symphonium enlarges XJ 17/17 collection.

Symphonium is a warm oriental woody fragrance with delicious heart made over chocolate and woody spicy notes, but this heart owes deeply to exceptional citrus accord of the top layer. Opens with taste of orange sweetened with cacao, plus strange, classic, sporty yet grown warm zest named Spanish mandarin (possibly a variety of clementine). This note donates some dimensions to the overall effect and reminds me of tangerine in opening of Frédéric Malle Monsieur. Sort of dusty smell blended with pleasing soft bitterness that doesn't spoil sweetness, appears and merges into Belgian chocolate of middle phase.

Chocolate on skin, from Pinterest

Chocolate in Symphonium has a recognizable musty aroma; partially leather'ish and dark, partially sweet and bitter, it has a wealthy and capricious character made over warm citrus and sweet dark notes. This aspect begins with opulent powdery and fresh smell in the opening of fragrance, like a chandelier full of crystals, and develops with struggle between citrus, sweets, and spicy bitterness. But eventually what transmits to vanillic and musky base is chocolate. What is significant about this chocolate is its wood-phil manner. A mix of Laotian and Thai oud elaborately envelopes the chocolate. White musk and vanilla and slightly ambergris render the base and soften chocolate oud.

Success key of Symphonium lies behinds its mystique gourmand aura. Gourmands are usually taken less serious but their dimensions and varieties are enlarging thanks to oriental fashion in perfume trend. Serge Lutens' quaint dates: Arabie; Jovoy's nasty patchouli: Psychédélique; Humiecki&Graef's weird woody: Blask; are all examples of professional perfumes with gourmand character.
Talk around chocolate fragrances may take so long. This note covers a vast category from two penny chocolate bars to Italian luxe chocolates costing a fortune...

Symphonium is enigmatic dark, deliciously sweet and fungal sour, very joyous and active, amusing, adventurous and wealthy. I'm afraid to call it a modern fragrance though chocolate is almost a new item in perfumery. It has faint classic attributions.

The fragrance opens so massive and immediately covers a vast area and like many Xerjoff fragrances this projection equals to a powerful performance on skin, up to over 20 hours. As routine of XJ 17/17 series, Symphonium is labeled with Dalmatian jasper stone.

Carpe Odor!

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