Monday, July 18, 2016

Perfume is intense form of memories: Extraordinary citrus Part II, Dilettante by Hiram Green

The day I was leaving Iran I clearly knew I miss something I left behind. An identity from in my tiny foggy green hometown by the Caspian sea. It was not only my farm which I have inherited from grandpa, but also millions of impatient orange blossoms remembering my childhood yells of delight every late-April. For me, and for my hometown, orange blossom is shield to European coat of arms. And it was my orange farm which I have left behind.

Hiram Green with his latest creation; Dilettante; delivers an unforgettable memory which startled me at the first whiff like the scene in Ratatouille (Pixar 2007) when the acerbic food critic Anton Ego teleports to childhood memories by the mouse's recipe. Dilettante cruises me back in years ago in mid-May with a big white linen curtain in hand to gather over-grown and near to decay orange blossoms and bring to mom to make orange blossom jam. Green respects all features of nature in this perfume and his rational point of view captures carnal and earthy and dirty olfactory texture of orange blossom; while this material is usually implemented to emerge divine and innocent air.

©Pierre de Nishapur ©Hiram Green ©Dilettante

Instead of listing notes in hierarchy his composition allows me to fluently talk about my impression on this precious fountain of beauty. I have tried over hundred neroli and orange blossom perfumes - pure or mixed within context of fragrance collaborating with several other ingredients - but honestly I haven't seen such simplistic and nature-loving around this blossom before. Scent of orange trees in full bloom is so sparkling, deeply indolic and sort of skanky animalic with slight stinky air which gives fungal delicious smell of blossom a deep dimension. The opening is rendered by elaborate touch of orange and petitgrain within neoli. Some of these features are coarsely demonstrated in Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle's opening, but unlike rude neroli in JPG's the base of Dilettante is directed by soft and murmured woodsy phases to keep the blossom and petitgrain away from decline.

Plus essence of twigs and leaves of citrus, his orange blossom has floral boundaries. It's cute, a little bitter, highly sweet damp, floral, and narcotic. And just like the blossom in nature, the fragrance has incredibly enormous sillage. It immediately leaves a track of floral indolic sweet smell of overly-ripe orange blossom behind. As well as its power of projection, its tenacity on skin is so great.

What is extraordinary about Dilettante is the perfume highly tends to chypre compositions. With natural beauty and full HD quality, indolic dimensions, and floral aspects, it has great capability to be implemented in a perfect chypre floral blend. Although I'm not fond of over-grown orange blossom in perfume (cause it leans to feminine side with effervescent floral aura and stays away from soothing air of greener nerolis) but no other orange blossom perfume have ever triggered such response in me. Just to name an example of overall space, Jo Malone Orange Blossom Cologne demonstrates fresher and greener neroli plus floral dimensions yet not that pure neroli.

But why Dilettante, when I asked Hiram, he replied "My goal was to make a fragrance that smelt simplistic. The wearer should be able to find their own meaning in the name. It goes without saying of course that there was nothing derogatory meant about calling the fragrance Dilettante." Simplistic yet thick and flawless, monotone yet natural and comprehensive, and modest in composition yet fourhand in quality, the perfume is. He aimed to make a simple fragrance, I can't stop talking about its glory.

Special thanks to dear Hiram for such unique olfactory convey.

Carpe Odor!

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